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> 7) Thunder Buttress
The Beast in Me
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.8 from 5 votes
Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Andrew Barry, John Burcham 1986 |
Page Views: | 1,963 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | Joseph DeGaetano on Jan 20, 2015 · Updates |
Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
The Beast in Me will certainly make you conjure up your inner animal.
The climbing starts off easy enough, but slowly builds in tempo as you reach the crux. Start by working up good holds to a flake. Layback up the flake using some smeary feet until you reach the stance below the route's only bolt. Breathe a sigh of relief knowing that this fixed protection will keep you safe as you get gnarled by the boulder problem above.
Be ready to snarl, clinch, and claw your way up the next 10 feet until you reach a jug which marks the end of the crux. If you've made it here clean you should have no problem hanging on for the next 15 feet of 5.10 climbing.
The climbing starts off easy enough, but slowly builds in tempo as you reach the crux. Start by working up good holds to a flake. Layback up the flake using some smeary feet until you reach the stance below the route's only bolt. Breathe a sigh of relief knowing that this fixed protection will keep you safe as you get gnarled by the boulder problem above.
Be ready to snarl, clinch, and claw your way up the next 10 feet until you reach a jug which marks the end of the crux. If you've made it here clean you should have no problem hanging on for the next 15 feet of 5.10 climbing.
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