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Unsorted Routes:

The Beast Flake 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 10,386
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Feb 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (79)
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Sam Todzia sitting on the flake belay on top of th...

Description 

The Beast Flake is a variation to the second pitch of Recompense that is so good, it deserves its own name.

From the bolted belay on Recompense, head up the chimney for a ways until it is obvious to traverse left (small TCU pro). Traverse around the corner (crux) and gain the wonderful flake. This flake is huge and is the Platonic ideal of juggy. Layback with little difficulty, and also little pro unless you brought numerous #3 and #3.5 Camalots. Belay at the top of the flake off gear at a stance.

The only downfall of this route (literally) is that you must then climb down from the belay, enter the chimey and climb Recompense's second pitch chimney grovel the the routes third pitch belay stance below the large dihedral.

Climbing Recompense using this variation is often called Recom-beast.


Protection 

Small TCUs to protect the traverse, bigger cams if you want to sew up the flake.



Photos of The Beast Flake Slideshow Add Photo
Just entering the Beast Flake.
Just entering the Beast Flake.
Ladd following and cleaning the big pro on this classic pitch.
Ladd following and cleaning the big pro on this cl...
Nuria enjoying the middle of our caterpillar.
Nuria enjoying the middle of our caterpillar.
the opening crux of the beast flake
the opening crux of the beast flake
Nuria smiling as she rounds the bulge above the scary crux of this classic pitch.
Nuria smiling as she rounds the bulge above the sc...
A couple moves up into the Beast Flake. I protected with a purple camalot down low, then just moved the # 3 with me the rest of the way.  Great stances for rests the whole way up.
A couple moves up into the Beast Flake. I protecte...
Take a look at this photo, I placed a yellow alien after I exited the traverse so my second would be forced to follow, it that the block that fell off?
Take a look at this photo, I placed a yellow alien...
Rhoads contemplates the Beast Flake.
Rhoads contemplates the Beast Flake.
George steppin out onto the flake. We were told to bring "big stuff"...oops, no need for anything over a 4.
BETA PHOTO: George steppin out onto the flake. We were told to...
Beast flake awesomeness
Beast flake awesomeness
17 May 2008 photo of the high traverse.  After hearing a bit of discussion about the ill-fated flake, I decided to climb up and see what was going on.  Here you can see the gray patch of rock where the flake used to be... <br /> <br />I didn't climb up the flake much higher than this because I was very skeptical of making the high traverse.  I opted for the low traverse into the chimney.  bleh!
BETA PHOTO: 17 May 2008 photo of the high traverse. After hea...
Beastin on the flake w/ a backpack full of beers :)
Beastin on the flake w/ a backpack full of beers :...
Comments on The Beast Flake Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 10, 2013
By Hampton Uzzelle
From: Tucson, Arizona
Feb 15, 2007

This route is SO GOOD you should not bother with the regular second pitch of Recompense. You can place pro high before the traverse and do the crux with the rope above you. This move is sometimes wet, but the climbing above is hard to beat.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 15, 2007

The Recom-Beast variation is the best way to do the route; however, there is a better variation for the next pitch so you don't have to grovel in the chimney at all.... I call it the high traverse, and it makes every pitch a classic.... After belaying atop the huge detached (yet secure) block at the top of the Beast Flake...you climb up a layback flake until you are even with a flake to your right (I normally put in a green and a purple Camalot) traverse right in to an undercling and a sidepull with bad feet.... Make a big step right on to your next belay ledge, and layback a few moves to a better stance.... It's about 5.9+, and the gear is good you just step father away from it as you go....

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jun 8, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Bring at least one #4 BD camalot for the flake, you can walk it while you climb. Less than a #4 and you'll be running it out, although it is easy ground...

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 8, 2007

If you look left as you start feeling runout, there is at least 1 good, small cam placement that might keep you from having to lug a big cam up....

By Furious D
Jul 10, 2007

Concerning the high traverse:
This weekend, 7/6/07, I watched someone pull off the large rock which I believe is the undercling that Lee describes, making this high traverse significantly harder than 5.9.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 10, 2007

wow if it is indeed the same hold i was talking about that is both sad and scary... i will have to take a look at some point... if anyone has more info please post it...

By Furious D
Jul 11, 2007

We were climbing Recompense when another party started up behind us, going for the Recom-Beast variation. From the beginning of 3rd pitch belay we had a clear view of the leader grabbing (undercling) the tv-sized hold, saying it moved when he touched it. he grabbed it again and that was all it took to send it flying down. We saw them the next day in EMS and they said you can see the gashes in the trail and it damaged some trees. They also said they found the rock and placed it by the trail for display. They said the lower traverse is still possible, but that high traverse is now a much harder option. They had to bail after the rock went down. Let me know if you have any more questions, yes its sad, seemed like a great climb!

By Cory B
May 18, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

17 May 2008 - I added a picture to the photo section of where the flake used to be. Upon noting the missing under cling, I opted for the low traverse...which sucks.

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 18, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I happen to like the step across into the abyss on the low traverse, it gives the climb a sense of 'Oh shit, I think I might blow this'

Although I do think that losing that flake makes the climb a little less fun.

By Cory B
May 28, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

It's still a three-star route, no doubt about it.

By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
Mar 10, 2009

Hmm, I've never even climbed the original Recompense route, always the beast flake variation. Looks like that might change.

By Zigs
Apr 1, 2009

I was wondering if someone could give me some info on the new best way to get from the beast flake to the third pitch of recompense? I've heard a few different things and am a little confused. thanks!

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 1, 2009

Well Zigs, there were a couple options for the traverse but one of them fell off so that makes your decision a little easier... you traverse down in to the chimney and do a few grovely off-width type moves up on to the ledge at the base of the corner where you can belay your second from a small crack near a stump...

I liked the other way better but i should get over it one of these days :)

By GFlores
Aug 10, 2009

For P3 traverse, I would advise against a high traverse as the feet are non existent and the undercling flake is gone. Instead low traverse, and if you are queasy about traversing w/o protection, you can do a blind stuff of a #3 BD Cam. Fits like a glove, then cruise across and work your way up the chimmney to much better climbing above! Enjoy!

By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Dec 13, 2011

First Ascent. Paul Ross George Myers. 5th July 1972

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Dec 13, 2011

And what a pitch! Imagine all the people who have enjoyed following that ascent over the years.

By James Simone
Mar 10, 2013

it lives up to the hype. the move into the beast flake is often wet, but the feet are good and the flake itself is just a gem