The Bear  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Page Views:  9,122. Good page?    Administrators:  Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Brian Quiter on Jun 18, 2002 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event  Sat Sun Mon Tue Wed 81° | 46° 73° | 46° 66° | 48° 72° | 41° 73° | 43°

Kurt Jensen on Black Hole Sun, Bear Cliff, Mt. St....

Description 

The Bear is one of the highest areas on Mt. St. Helena, and it's name probably comes from the fact that it's a pain in the ass to get up to it. The climbing is on a large overhanging face and ranges from 5.9's to 5.12's. On the right side of the main face, there exists 3 second pitch routes that don't see much traffic. They can be approached from any of the climbs beneath because of the sizable ledge at their base. Finally, be a nice belayer and try not to lower climbers into the sharp trees beneath the climbs. Loose rocks above the second pitch climbs make it advisable to always wear a helmet at the base if any other groups are up top.

Getting There 

Approach time: From the bubble: 5-10 minutes.From the road: 20 - 45 minutes.

(edit)
Per Dodrill's comment. There is now an excellent approach trail to the Bear. Continue up the fire trail maybe 1/4 mile from the bubble, going past the Bear looming above on the left. As the fire trail takes a hard left there is a good narrow trail that traverses back right through manzanita and young pines towards the Bear.

The beta photo on the right is now very wrong. Hopefully our dear administrators will delete it sometime.

Old approach beta that is only here for posterity:
From the switchback at the bubble, continue up the firetrail about 150 yards and look for a steep, loose trail leading up from the left side of the road (its not too obvious). There's a dead tree across the road from the road form the beginning of the trail, but it doesn't really stand out, so we figured we'd supply some pictures.Upon finding the trail, you have about a 5 minute pain in the ass hike up the steep, loose path until you come to the left-most end of the bear. The first climb you'll come to is Jeckyl & Hyde and then Rampage, which begins near the noticable tree. As you continue adjacent to the rock, the Chimney climb, Mark's Moderate is a very recognizable landmark if you become disoriented.

The Classics

Featured Route For The Bear

Stone Free 5.12a  CA : SF Bay Area : ... : The Bear

Starting on the right side of the main rock of the bear, this is the last climb on the 1st pitch. Crux is a traversy move between the second and third bolts that's more balance than power. Beware the the prominent roof above the 3rd bolt is hollow, and is REALLY loose on the right side. This section is run out, but is probably only 5.8 or so. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of The Bear Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: correct approach to the bear	BETA PHOTO: Bear Cliff Topo	BETA PHOTO: NEW correct approach to The Bear. This is the trai...
BETA PHOTO: Bear Cliff Topo, updated 2012