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 ADVANCED
Wendell Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bag of Tricks aka Flake 
Beak, The 
Black Streak, The 
Bob's Nob 
Castlewood Capers 
Cheesedick Soiree 
Cobble Wobble 
Horizontal Bop 
Icerigger 
Nob Job 
Noodlers' Nightmare 
Nose Job 
Phalloid Void 
Pit Viper 
Pocket, The 
Prarie Dog 
Ruse, The 
Seamless aka Knappweed Infestation 
Sidewinder 
Slot, The 
Song of the Wood 
Sub, The 
Sun Cave Direct 
Sun Cave Right 
Svengali 
Textured Landscape 
Triskaidekaphobia 
Unsorted Routes:

The Beak 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Tom Hanson, 1998
Page Views: 695
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 25, 2001
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Wendell Spire left sector. The Beak is #26.
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Description 

In using Tom Hanson's guide to this sector, we run out of routes established by 1997 with The Sub (#18). As "the plan" unfolded, eight to ten more routes were established in this sector, and I have used the geographically distinct beak to distinguish the left end of The Wendel Spire area from the Playground, making The Beak roughly route 26, not bad under the circumstances.

The Beak fires up the big dihedral just below the huge beak-like formation on the left perimeter of the area. A cruxy move gains the pale white face on the right which can be run on small cobbles and shallow pockets to a stance just below the chains. A jam and a gaston or even a couple of jams snags the anchor.

It is a good route, has solid stone, and has a cool position are worth a pair of stars. It might be a good idea to get the chains lowered someday. While at the chains, it is obligatory to check out the horizontal, 20 foot trad crack that is just waiting for someone with extra fingers to get a burn, do-able but ugly.


Protection 

Eight draws and a rope.



Photos of The Beak Slideshow Add Photo
Pulling over the first roof.
Pulling over the first roof.
Making the final clip...tape up good, that crack is SHARP!!!
Making the final clip...tape up good, that crack i...
Comments on The Beak Add Comment
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By ROC
From: Englewood, CO
Oct 27, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

This route is amazing! I've checked out this route for the past 7 years every time I visit this part of the canyon. I always thought that it was "the sub" 13a, due to the old guide book. Seeing it listed as 11d on this site put it within my skill range. Figured I'd make a project of it. Looked dirty but do-able. Got on this last Friday and onsighted the sucka. The route has it all...smearing slab moves, an overhang, dihedral, lieback, travers, arete, slopperz, hand crack to offwidth, and gaston at the end. And don't forget a few jugs and good rest stances. Didn't see any moves that warrant the 11d rating, unless it is given due to the exposed nature of the route. A huge pain to clean unless you've got someone following.***