The Beak 5.11d
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Wendell Spire left sector. The Beak is #26.
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Description In using Tom Hanson's guide to this sector, we run out of routes established by 1997 with The Sub (#18). As "the plan" unfolded, eight to ten more routes were established in this sector, and I have used the geographically distinct beak to distinguish the left end of The Wendel Spire area from the Playground, making The Beak roughly route 26, not bad under the circumstances.
The Beak fires up the big dihedral just below the huge beak-like formation on the left perimeter of the area. A cruxy move gains the pale white face on the right which can be run on small cobbles and shallow pockets to a stance just below the chains. A jam and a gaston or even a couple of jams snags the anchor.
It is a good route, has solid stone, and has a cool position are worth a pair of stars. It might be a good idea to get the chains lowered someday. While at the chains, it is obligatory to check out the horizontal, 20 foot trad crack that is just waiting for someone with extra fingers to get a burn, do-able but ugly.
Protection Eight draws and a rope.
Pulling over the first roof.
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Making the final clip...tape up good, that crack i...
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By ROC
From: Englewood, CO
Oct 27, 2005
rating: 5.10d
| This route is amazing! I've checked out this route for the past 7 years every time I visit this part of the canyon. I always thought that it was "the sub" 13a, due to the old guide book. Seeing it listed as 11d on this site put it within my skill range. Figured I'd make a project of it. Looked dirty but do-able. Got on this last Friday and onsighted the sucka. The route has it all...smearing slab moves, an overhang, dihedral, lieback, travers, arete, slopperz, hand crack to offwidth, and gaston at the end. And don't forget a few jugs and good rest stances. Didn't see any moves that warrant the 11d rating, unless it is given due to the exposed nature of the route. A huge pain to clean unless you've got someone following.*** |
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