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Owl's Head Cliff (Oliverian Notch)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Armstrong Arches. 
Beak Buttress (the nose), The 
Bert's climb 
Bert's Right Facing Corner  
Bolted face E3 or Black Velvet 
Bolted face Route E1 
Bolted Face Route E2 or Power Failure 
Bolted face Route E4 or Slab Happy 
Bolted face route E5 or Van Burren Route 
E12 
E6 or White Lightning 
E8 or Leading cause  
E9 or Leading Cause variation right side. 
Energizer E10 
giant dead tree corner, The 
Great Circle Route, The 
Left side of Boiler Plates Route E7  
R&B 
Rapper, The 
Revelations or E11 
Spare Ribs 
Variations to Bert's Climb  
W1  
W2 
W3 
W4 
W5 
W6 

The Beak Buttress (the nose) 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bert Jensen and companions, 1937
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 886
Submitted By: bradley white on Jul 22, 2009
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Start of second pitch of Beak Buttress

Description 

Mostly known as the the 'Nose Buttress' but birds don't have noses so I changed the name. Enter east facing corner of buttress and exit it (5-7) onto sandy path until boulder is reached to belay. Move off the boulder on the left side and climb face up and right around bulge (5-6) climb wall with horizontal crack up to depression surrounded by bushes and belay. Go up and under big bush to a move around an outside corner and grab onto an arch moving east until there is a break in the arch (5-7). Go through this break and up to a belay. climb past trees and ledges head east for a large dirty inside corner facing west and climb it to the summit. If it wasn't for the bushes on the third pitch this climb would be a four star classic. It is also rightfully the classic route on the cliff because of the extreme exposure on pitch three and the fact that this is likely the first climb done on this cliff.


Location 

climb up the dirt gully west side of the beak buttress and belay at a tree next to the east facing corner. Walk off.


Protection 

Trad rack and if you look hard you'll see a couple of vintage pins.



Photos of The Beak Buttress (the nose) Slideshow Add Photo
Myself on the third pitch. vintage, 1989 photo. Photographer Anders Gressy.
Myself on the third pitch. vintage, 1989 photo. Ph...
Comments on The Beak Buttress (the nose) Add Comment
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By shaftoe
Sep 23, 2010

A buddy and I climbed owl's head last weekend I'm wondering if anyone can tell me if I was on the right route ;)

We tried to do the beak buttress with an alternate start (because the first pitch looked full of plants). The alternate start was on the next bolted route directly to the west of the buttress (I find it nearly impossible to figure out which route this is based on the descriptions and numbering system on this site; I guess it W6?). We climbed the first several (6?) bolts of the slab and then traversed on decent pro to the tree and ledge on the west side of the buttress.
The route we took is highlighted here:

The beak buttress with variation on first pitch?
The beak buttress with variation on first pitch?


The middle part of the climb (what is described on this site as the third pitch I believe) is different than what is depicted in the "Rock Climbing New England" guide. For this pitch, I'm pretty sure we stayed on the route described here. It was worth it. By far the best section of the route besides the alternate start.

The least obvious part of the climb was the top part where there is some potentially really nice rock if you go straight up but it looks dirty and moss filled. It didn't look like there was much pro so we continued diagonally to the east after the very nice 30 feet of flake. The description on this site says to head for the "large dirty inside corner facing west". I'm not sure how close our route is to the one described?

By David Powers
Sep 24, 2010

From the line you drew on the photo it appears you started up a route called Jupiter (not on this site) then traversed on to the Nose or as called here Beak Buttress. We saw you guys on our way out on Sun, must of been a late one for you. Good job on taking it to the top. How did you get back down?

By shaftoe
Sep 25, 2010

Good question.
Although there was a potential rap route it was getting dark (6:30ish?) so we decided to take the less adventurous way down after noticing a marked trail...
since it got dark fast we stayed on the trail and didn't try to cut back west to rejoin the cliff. This was maybe the wrong decision as we didn't get back to the car till 8:30.
The walk took us far east until we joined the blueberry mountain trail:
msrmaps.com/image.aspx?T=2&S=14&Z=19&X=83&Y=1524&W=2

Live and learn...
there must be a better way to walk back to the bottom of the cliff.

By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Jun 17, 2013

Except for the start that is a scramble uphill right of where you guys started and goes up a crack in the block in the trees below where you came in to the nose. From there you stayed on route. I described the original ascent line and not the best way up nowadays. Nice to know that the big slab 'Jupiter' is bolted.