The BBB route
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BBB Route from the base
Locate a bolt about twenty feet up, strategically placed below the beginning of a thin seam. The climbing here is solid 9- but requires a cool head. There is a piton just right of the climbing at head height from the ground but it would do very little for you if you fell above it trying to clip the bolt. After clipping the first bolt, thin fingers lead to a boulder problem crux and a marginal rest on a sloping ledge. From here you can escape left at 8+ or plug gear in a horizontal, step up to a lone bolt and launch into a pumpy thin fight to the chains.
when walking up the approach trail the first very obvious line when you reach the cliff.
two bolts, wires, cams from yellow alien to #3 BD.
By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
Nov 22, 2012
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
This is a fun climb with good pro once you reach the bolt. The bolt protecting the optional .11 finish (which is the way to go, btw) may be in need of replacing.