A hard climb when it is dry and ill-advised when it is wet. In the wetter seasons, it can drip water all day. A challenging route with hand-size dependent difficulty, I find it worthy of the 5.10+ rating, given my smaller paws.
Start up in the left facing corner on smaller gear and do a few stemming moves (5.9?) to get tucked in under the huge roof. Make your way out the roof on good jams and pull the lip (crux) above a large cam and a large Jam. The day I did it I ran into Ron Snyder at the top, who commented that he believed that the route may have gotten harder since the FA, perhaps that a finishing hold over the lip was gone.
This climb is on the upper tier of Fortress Wall and is one of the few routes in the center to access the true top. Start on a route on the right side of the huge amphitheatre, Horny Bitch, Route 52, Cussin' Crack, or Bombs Bursting. Access the ledge above and walk back to the bottom of a large left-facing corner capped by a huge roof.
A set of stoppers and cams to a #4 camalot.
|By Jeremy Steck|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 16, 2007
As of 10/07, the anchors for this route are a small tree about 20 Ft. into the woods after reaching the first stance after the roof. Great route, best if your second can clean it, otherwise you have to do it on rappel and it's a real nightmare!