|734 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.9+ [details]|
|FA: ||Kyle Lefkoff & Leigh "Manuel" McGinley, 1987|
|Season: ||Gets mid-day winter sun|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Jan 12, 2002|
Ken Heiser leading at the crux on a shady, cool mo...
Start as for Muscular Dystrophy, but where MD cuts left 12' up from the handcrack to a finger crack, place a 2" or 2.5" cam and cut ever so slightly left to a flake and seam. A questionable medium nut can go behind the flake, and up and high right some micro cams or a small TCU can be placed with a little reach, in an open spot in the seam. This is visible from the ground. Move up past those moves (10a, crux?) to a stance where you can reach around to the right and set a few nuts in a crack for the right hand (hard to see until you look for it) which are good nuts. Pull up and layback on this hold a tad (10a? maybe this is the crux) to reach for positive holds above, then do the easy moves from there to the belay on the ledge above. You can finish on Laughing At The Moon or Muscular Dystrophy.
Rossiter's description and topo are poor. The position of the route is clear, but there are a few issues: 1) The route is sure easy for 10b (9+/10a, my partner agreed) 2) The route is well protected for an S (partner agreed) 3) There is no fixed pin, which was prominent in the description and topo.
The route was rated S in Rossiter's books. The books also mention a fixed pin, which is not there and has not been for a while.
Nonetheless, the route protects reasonably on some small-to-mediam nuts and micro-cams. I placed the bottom 2 sizes of micro-Camalots and then a #7 BD nut next to a BD copper-steel nut (#4?). That was the hard part. I got a few nuts in later as well. I never felt as though I was risking a long fall.
Peter Spindloe follows the short but fun route The...
Getting in to it.
BETA PHOTO: The route.
|By Chris Dawson|
From: Denver, CO
Aug 19, 2002
Just backing up Tony's assessment. For sure not "S", for sure not 5.10b, and definitely no pin; however, I think it's two stars when combined with Laughing at the Moon in one pitch. Kick ass!
|By david goldstein|
Jul 7, 2003
The first 30' are nice, steep climbing. I agree that the crux is not S and that the old rating of 5.9+ is more like it. However, some quality and an S can be added to the route, by continuing straight up a 5.8ish slab (no pro, ledge ) after the crux rather than going up the easy corner to the left. By itself, this climb is a solid one star.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Nov 8, 2003
Huge rails up a short route. Easy 5.9. Soft touch for the grade.
|By kyle lefkoff|
May 18, 2004
The pin was courtesy of Leigh "Manuel" McGinley and me in 1987. The new Rossiter guide hadn't come out yet, the route was dirty and poorly protected before the crux, and the were lots of new bolt routes going in. So we climbed it in trad style ground up, placed the pin on lead, and named it "Lone Justice". Rossiter published the next year and correctly identified it as the Bat, noted the pin, and incorrectly rated it 10- s.
I agree that it is a better start to Laughing or MD.
|By S. Kimball|
Nov 17, 2004
You internet guys must have bats between your ears if you think this is well protected.... I say put that short/fat blade back where it belongs and don't kid yourself about those micro cams....
|By adam brink|
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 18, 2004
Does every route have to have protection every ten feet? Why would you want to ruin a fine (though not great) natural line with some fixed gear? The climbing is fairly secure and easy, so what if you have to run it out a tad (and only a tad).
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 18, 2004
Scott, That "short flat blade" you mention would probably occupy the space where the bomber #7 stopper I mentioned goes. The climb is not runout. If a pin is replaced and over time becomes questionable (which it will), the gear will be lacking in desirability. I say let the climber place his pro and place it well.
I don't think that you will say a good #7 stopper won't hold a fall, so... As far as trusting microcams and their ability to hold goes.... I don't have bats between my ears. Yes, you've been climbing for a lot longer than me, and climbing harder at that, but we've both been climbing since before the little cams were invented, and it seems a majority of people think that they are pretty good. I'm not talking #00 Friends (aid pieces) I am talking the red and yellow micro-Camalots. They will hold if the rock does.
|By Guy H.|
From: Fort Collins CO
Feb 8, 2009
I second the recommendation to link this with the upper pitch of LATM. I used a 70m rope, but a 60m might work. A great ~200ft pitch....
|By Eli Helmuth|
From: Estes Park, CO
Jun 2, 2009
A nice pitch and with long runners above the crux section can easily be linked with Laughing at the Moon into a 60m three star 5.10 or go a little left and straight up after the ledge to reach the anchor at the top of the 'second pitch" of Muscular Dystrophy for a 25m rappel/top-rope.
Micro cams C3 #1 and 0 below and a #4 micro stopper at the crux make it a solid pro sew-up. No need for a pin- well worth doing alone or a nicer start to MD.
|By Andy Kowles|
Nov 7, 2011
A 60m will work to link all the way up through 'Laughing'. Walk off. Sick link up that can be done with a standard Eldo rack. Recommend this to 5.10- Eldo onsighters for sure.
#1 TCU/Mastercam-ish placement below the low crux is good (I tested it).
|By Ben Burnett|
Oct 14, 2012
PG Plenty of gear, but there were a few pieces I didn't want to test. Probably wouldn't get hurt, though
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 19, 2013
rating: 5.9+ PG13
Fun route, a little exciting but there is more gear than it appears from the ground. Wasn't sure I was going to do it, because from the ground, there looks to be no gear, but once you get going, there are plenty of opportunities. Plan on using lots of small gear and working for your placements.