The Bastille - N Face  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Lat, Long:  39.9307, -105.283 Map Page Views:  411,109. Good page? (1 like)    Administrators:  Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Leo Paik on Jan 1, 2001 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event

BETA PHOTO: The north and west faces of the Bastille.

5. Werk...

Description 

A mega-classic rock. The Bastille and, in particular, its North Face, is a cornerstone of climbing in Eldorado Canyon State Park. According to P. Ament in High Over Boulder this was once called Chimney Rock and may have been named The Bastille by Stan Shepard in 1957. This modest, 350 foot crag can be divided into The N face and the W face for organizational purpose. The N face is steep, shaded, and has exceptional routes for intermediate climbers and advanced climbers who seek out the mental challenges in addition to the physical. There are those who count the seconds attempting to set solo speed records here. There is probably little for the lower end difficulty climber nor the high end climber here.

Once, the summit provided an anchor point for the cable upon which crossed Ivy Baldwin on many death-defying crossings of the canyon. Today, the cable remains testament to a disappearing breed of adventurer. Climbing here began at least in the 1950s. There are legends of Frenchmen swilling champagne during an ascent up The Bastille Crack on French Independence Day. Today, this remains a crag that holds a special place in the hearts of climbers who have progressed to climb some of the great walls and peaks of the world.

Amazingly, this face had some early high standard climbing with Stan Shepard and Allen Bergen freeing the upper 4 pitches of the Bastille Crack in 1957; however, the most amazing feat is likely Ray Northcutt's 1959 freeing of the Northcutt Start, 5.10d, after being told, incorrectly, that his competitor, Layton Kor, had just freed it.

This crag has been a proving grounds for some of Colorado's finest including: Layton Kor, Steve Komito, Pat Ament, Larry Dalke, Ray Northcutt, Dudley Chelton, Rob Candelaria, Roger Briggs, Kevin Donald, Jeff Lowe, Charlie Fowler, David Breashears, Duncan Ferguson, Christian Griffith, Mic Fairchild, Derek Hersey, among others.

Some of the finest routes on this face include: The Bastille Crack, 5.7;Werksupp, 5.9+; Outer Space, 5.10c; Northcutt Start, 5.10d (likely Colorado's and possibly the US's first 5.10); X-M, 5.10d s; Northwest Corner, 5.11a s; Wide Country, 5.11a s; The Spice Tour, 5.11 s; & Hairstyles and Attitudes, 5.12c/d.

There are so many variations, linkups that it may be hard to list them all and unmotivating for most to submit these to the database.

Descents off the top traverse along an exposed-at-times break/ramp near the top to the N side of the rock and gain a 3rd class ramp down to the Fowler Trail. From here, descend the West Face hiking trail (3rd class near the bottom) back down to the base. A few of the routes have rappel descents, but they are the minority.

Come and climb here, but realize that many share your passion for the experiences found on this stone.

Getting There 

The most arduous approach in Eldo by far...At least a 1 min. walk from the parking lot to the West.

Once you enter Eldorado Canyon State Park, you will hopefully find parking within 200 yards in one of two areas. Park. Walk uphill to the obvious bridge across South Boulder Creek. Look up and left. This is The Bastille. The N face is accessed off the road. The W face is accessed off a 3rd class trail just around the corner and up the steep slope.

The Classics

Featured Route For The Bastille - N Face

X-M 5.10c R  CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : The Bastille - N Face

This is a serious lead and even more serious for the second. Let me jump ahead to the crux second pitch. The second pitch contains a 20+' traverse after the crux. To protect your second consider a) double ropes, b) solo the pitch, c) rappel and clean the gear, d) have the best climber follow the pitch and hope they don't come off.Start about 20' right of the start of the Bastille Crack, 10' left of the cave at the base of the Bastille.P1. Climb up through a series of runout, left-fa...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of The Bastille - N Face Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Bastille West Buttress	BETA PHOTO: View of Bastille from Wind Tower. Showing Werk Su...	On this beautiful day, the Bastille reminded me of...
A big, beautiful face.