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 ADVANCED
Great Chimney Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bastard Chimney, The T,TR 
Coup d'Etat T,TR 
Cracker Jack T,TR 
Dirty Day TR 
Get Jacked T,TR 
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked (Direct), The T,TR 
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked, The T,TR 
Handle With Care T,TR 
Hot Beef Injection T 
Match the Snatch T,TR 
Milking the Bull TR 
Overlooked T,TR 
Pale Rider T 
Perverted Inspiration T,TR 
Practice Chimney  T 
Son Of Great Chimney T 
Son of Great Chimney Direct T,TR 
Whipping Boy T 
Wild West Homo T,TR 

The Bastard Chimney 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: old school or dlfa
Page Views: 842
Submitted By: Ryan Strong on Apr 10, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Ryan starting in the real tight beginning.

Description 

This is the obvious long and tall splitter chimney on the backside of the "Coup D' Etat" formation. Starts off as tight ( really tight) squeeze chimney and eventually flares into a nice width.

Long clean cracks like this perfect for practicing technique aren't very common at the lake. Get on this!

Location 

Long chimney located on backside of "Coup D'etat". Can't miss it.

Route 58 in Sven's Book.

Protection 

TR, (big bro's and maybe real long slings for slinging chock stones.) Might as well solo the route for hard-man status. If you slip you aren't going far.


Photos of The Bastard Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
A shot looking at the top of The Bastard.
A shot looking at the top of The Bastard.
Reinke getting through the enjoyably wide top.
Reinke getting through the enjoyably wide top.
Looking up at the route. Splitter.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the route. Splitter.

Comments on The Bastard Chimney Add Comment
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By Leo Hski
Aug 18, 2013

As for the FA- assume this was a CMC or Stettners trophy. No self-respecting DLFA-er would have climbed this. Well maybe with the exception of Pigs In Space now that I think about it.