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The Barkeater Cliff

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
ASPCA T 
Bachelors and Bowery Bums T 
Because Dogs Can (P1) T 
Big Bertha T 
Eat Yourself a Pie T,TR 
Finger It Out T 
Flexi Flyer T 
Fun City T 
Fun Country T 
Good Dough T,TR 
Lick It Up T 
Mr. Clean T 
Mr. Dirty T 
Overdog T 
Rule of the Bone T 
Yakapodu T 

The Barkeater Cliff 


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Location: 44.2591, -73.8626 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 12,306
Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Chris Duca, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Oct 24, 2007
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View from atop the cliff while Lindsay belays Ara ...

Description 

According to legend, the Iroquois Indians referred to the Algonquins as "adirondacks", or "barkeaters" because they were forced to live off of bark and buds during the long, harsh winters. It was supposed to be a low-blow to the supposed crude, and not-so useful hunting methods of the Algonquins.

The above description may or may not be true, but it continues to hang around due to how accurately it depicts some of the climbing and many of the approaches in Adirondack park--wild, rudiment, harsh, and long.

Fortunately, The Barkeater Cliff bears only a small resemblance to the above description. Yes, the cliff IS in a remote part of the Adirondacks, but the climbing is very tame, very clean, and ultra manageable. The cliff sits opposite the Sentinel Range, nestled quietly on the backside of Pitchoff Mountain and embodies everything Adirondack climbing is famous for.

For many reasons, this cliff is the perfect place for beginner and moderate climbers; there are plenty of routes in the 5.5 to 5.8 range, the routes are short enough to climb and rappel with one rope, and the gear, for the most part, is impeccable. Classic lines include, Mr. Clean (5.8), Big Bertha (5.6), Fun City (5.7), Yakapodo (5.6+), and Finger It Out (5.10); however, there are plenty of other routes that also deserve to be climbed.


Getting There 

Just uphill from the town of Keene off route 73 is a road named "Alstead Hill Road". There is an obvious sign right before the turn, so you won't miss it. Take this road past the Barkeater Inn and Cross-Country Ski Center, and continue all the way to the end of the road (the road will turns to a maintained dirt about midway down it). Park at the end of the road in the Rock and River parking lot.

Follow the Jackrabbit Trail off the back of the parking lot for about a mile, until you see a cairn on the left side of the trail right past a wide wooden bridge. Follow this path through the woods, across a couple of babbling brooks and uphill for about 15 minutes. You will eventually come to the cliff with the clean, right-facing corner of Mr. Clean in front of you.


16 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',3],['5.8',2],['5.9',3],['5.10',4],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Barkeater Cliff:
Good Dough   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Yakapodu   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Big Bertha   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Fun City   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
ASPCA   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Mr. Clean   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Eat Yourself a Pie   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Overdog   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 150'   
Lick It Up   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   
Finger It Out   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Fun Country   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 130'   
Rule of the Bone   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in The Barkeater Cliff

Featured Route For The Barkeater Cliff
Scott Arno moves with determination on the direct start (5.10b) to "Rule of the Bone" (5.10c - Barkeater Cliff - Adirondacks, NY)

Rule of the Bone 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  NY : Adirondacks : ... : The Barkeater Cliff
A great climb that offers a little bit of everything with a really good direct variation that provides a sustained quality independent line to the roof.Original: Start as for Mr. Dirty and climb for 30' then traverse right at a crack below the roof to a small left-facing corner in the roof.Direct: Start on top of the obvious large boulder resting at the base of the cliff below a bolt. Work up to the bolt and the finger crack and follow the finger crack to its end and another bolt. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

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By Daniel Israel
May 23, 2014

So how long is the approach in total, about 25 minutes?