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Middle Finger Wall
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The Balcony 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 2 pitches, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 751
Submitted By: chopperjohn on Sep 20, 2009
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Middle Finger Wall

The Balcony (5.5) trad

Crowde...
2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Near and above the big ledge aka " The Balcony"


Location 

middle finger proper.


Protection 

sling some trees, cam a pocket and a couple horizontal tricam spots leads to nice bolt anchor. Top belay is an option also can be done in 2 pitches to avoid huge rope drag.



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Middle Finger Wall <br /> <br />The Balcony (5.5) trad <br /> <br />Crowders Mountain State Park, North Carolina
Middle Finger Wall

The Balcony (5.5) trad

Crowde...
Comments on The Balcony Add Comment
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By Eduardo Ramirez
From: Columbia, SC
Jul 22, 2012

Locate the cave/hole/balcony in the center and halfway up Middle Finger Wall.

Start under this feature on a small slab pillar that leads to the balcony. Climb cliff left out of the balcony and continue climbing up just left of the balcony to arrive on an obivious ledge with a bolted anchor.

One long pitch makes for some fun climbing but make sure to use extended runners. The rock quality is not inspiring but the climbing is physically easy.

By Russ Keane
Dec 9, 2013

LOVED THIS CLIMB!

Such an unexpected treat. If you are looking for some low-level trad, this is a pleasant but challenging two-pitch adventure that has some of the most unique architectural features I've ever seen, on pitch one. Simply gorgeous visually, getting up to and chilling in "the cave".

Then for pitch two, you have to swing around left out of the cave, which is pretty airy and exposed. The whole pitch is steep and very heady, albeit easy climbing with a million holds and feet. SOOO much fun for trad leading. I've climbed some exposed routes before (Gunks for sure), and this one ranks up there. It's intense! But not scary.

Great asthetics, challenging moves, on beautiful rock.