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Jimmy Cliff - West Face
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The Balcony 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob Gaines 1998
Page Views: 216
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Feb 16, 2003

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The Balcony around sunset.

Description 

Walk to the southwest end of the Jimmy Cliff crag and boulder up to the base of the detached column. The route begins opposite Lurleen Quits on the northwest face ("Peanut Gallery" is on the east face of the column). Ascend the well-protected face on quality granite. Initially the climbing is moderate but becomes discernably more challenging near the top. Three out of five stars.

Protection 

This fine sport route ascends the northwest face of the detached block on the southernmost end of the Jimmy Cliff formation. Six bolts lead to sport anchors.


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By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 28, 2005
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

A great addition to the area, this is an enjoyable route with high quality stone, fun moves and a distinct crux midway involving a high step to a good edge. Three stars out of five.
By Murf
Jan 29, 2012

Oddly I thought the hardest moves were at the end. Maybe misread it? Sunny late afternoon, quality patina!!
By Bob Gaines
Jan 29, 2012

This route gets progressively more difficult as you ascend. On the topo I drew after the FA: (6 bolts) 5.10- above the third bolt,5.10- above the fourth bolt, 5.10+ above the fifth bolt, and 5.11b above the last (sixth) bolt to the anchor.

Lower-off anchor 60 feet
By john durr
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Jan 27, 2014

This route's rating follows the tradition of "well if Anacram is 5.10c then this must be..."