The Balcony 5.11b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b [details] |
| FA: | Bob Gaines 1998 |
| Submitted By: | Vernon Stiefel on Feb 16, 2003 |
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Description Walk to the southwest end of the Jimmy Cliff crag and boulder up to the base of the detached column. The route begins opposite Lurleen Quits on the northwest face ("Peanut Gallery" is on the east face of the column). Ascend the well-protected face on quality granite. Initially the climbing is moderate but becomes discernably more challenging near the top. Three out of five stars.
Protection This fine sport route ascends the northwest face of the detached block on the southernmost end of the Jimmy Cliff formation. Six bolts lead to sport anchors.
By C Miller Administrator Jan 28, 2005 rating: 5.11b
| A great addition to the area, this is an enjoyable route with high quality stone, fun moves and a distinct crux midway involving a high step to a good edge. Three stars out of five. |
By Murf Jan 29, 2012
| Oddly I thought the hardest moves were at the end. Maybe misread it? Sunny late afternoon, quality patina!! |
By Bob Gaines Jan 29, 2012
| This route gets progressively more difficult as you ascend. On the topo I drew after the FA: (6 bolts) 5.10- above the third bolt,5.10- above the fourth bolt, 5.10+ above the fifth bolt, and 5.11b above the last (sixth) bolt to the anchor. Lower-off anchor 60 feet |
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