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Animal World
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Animal Instinct 
Animal Magnetism 
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Animation aka Jaycene's Dance 
Automatic Choke 
Balance, The 
Beast Food Left 
Beast Food Right 
Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head 
Blockhead 
Cannabis Sportiva 
Closer To God 
Cold Snap 
Crack Corner 
Cujo Tranquilizer 
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed 
Evolution Revolution 
Familiar Strangers 
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) 
Fifth World, The 
Free Willie 
Global Gorilla 
Gull Whackers 
Hands of Destiny 
Hope and Pray 
Is It Ready Yet...Moe 
Isn't Life Strange 
Joint Venture 
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello 
Lazy Day 
Lovely to See You 
Melancholy Man 
New Beginnings 
Nice To Be Here 
Old Dihedral 
Piles of Trials 
Pit Bull Prowser 
Reversal Roof 
Ride My See-saw 
Split Personality 
Strange Times 
Sundog 
Talking Out Of Turn 
Threshold Of A Dream 
Triple Play 
Tuesday Afternoon 
Unfamiliar Strangers 
We Don't Do Crack 
Wine and Roses 

The Balance 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type: Trad, Sport, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob D & Dan Brockway
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,002
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 14, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Laying off the corner at the crux.

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Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The crux is getting past the second bolt. Nice face climbing leads to a crack (medium gear) and to the last bolt and the anchors.


Location 

On a pillar of rock 40 feet right of Isn't Life Strange


Protection 

Six clips, green, red and yellow camalots and quickdraws for the ring anchors.



Photos of The Balance Slideshow Add Photo
The crux looks easy in this photo and from the ground. It's not.
The crux looks easy in this photo and from the gro...
Above the crux.
Above the crux.
Comments on The Balance Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kat A
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
May 15, 2008

Helmet recommended for belayer. Rock isn't very clean.

By Jeremy
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 27, 2008
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

This route is pretty good. Take gear. Crux is low and kinda one move.
Definitely not a bomb.

By Gold Plated Rocket Pony
From: Boulder, CO
May 9, 2009

You need to commit to the opening moves before you can reach the first bolt. If the first bolt was 6" or 12" lower this would be a much better route. I didn't see any good gear placements just below the first bolt, and it seemed a bit strange to commit with a bad fall potential on what ended up being the crux of the entire route.

By Greg D
From: Here
Apr 4, 2011

There is good gear down and right of the first bolt although not obvious once you do the easy scrambling trying to reach the first bolt. I would agree the first bolt is not well placed. The movement on this route is good once you get into it, although it is a bit licheny since it appears to get little traffic. I placed cams from tips to number 1 Camalot and a few nuts to supplement the bolts. Worth doing if in the area and when it cleans up a bit more.

By slim
Administrator
Oct 8, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Total POS. Poorly bolted (can't clip first bolt from the good stance, even if you are really tall. Ledgefall potential above 2nd bolt on weird bulgy slab, lame traverse into dirty crack (WTF???).

Total pile. If it was bolted better, it would maybe be 1 star, but the moronic bolting totally kills it.