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The Bait 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dan Hare, 1994
Page Views: 699
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Aug 29, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Ross, enjoying all of the holds that face the wron...

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Description 

This is a superb route located on the lower wall of Coney Island. When you arrive at the base, this will be the furthest route left on the lower wall. The bolts will converge to a dihedral where the climbing is very fun. Place a piece in the corner, (may still be a small stopper there from my partner taking a fall on it), and stem your way to the anchors. The bottom of this route is harder than it looks from the ground. There are also bolts to the left of the start that could be used but would need very long slings. Just go straight up under the obvious corner. This is a great route.

Protection 

4/5 bolts & 1 optional piece (small stopper) - 2 bolt anchor.


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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 5, 2002

Dan is the man. Another diamond in the rough.
By Ken Leiden
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 13, 2002

I concur. A short, but excellent route. Harder than it looks. Thoughtful moves with holds facing the wrong way -- this is not a pull-n-go type of route. I placed a piece of gear a few feet above the last bolt to protect the last hard move.
By Dougald MacDonald
Mar 24, 2012

I would not call the wired nut for the finish "optional." Seemed essential to me!
By erik rieger
From: Gold Hill, CO
Oct 27, 2013

Mid-size nut or small TCU sews up the top. Good route.