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The Babylon Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
PFM. Pure f $%^& * magic.  T 
All American Arete S 
All American Hand Crack T 
Babylon T 
Box Tops T 
Corner left of All American Hand Crack T 
Far East T 
Left for Dead T,TR 
Proof of Purchase T,S 

The Babylon Crag  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,100'
Location: 39.34263, -120.33123 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,955
Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Colonel Mustard on Jun 1, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Topo of the NE side of Babylon Crag. Disclaimer -...

Description 

Situated South of I-80, The Babylon Crag contains a handful of climbs ranging from moderate to one striking 5.12+ finger crack. Some of the granite is coarse like that found on the Black Wall, but is high quality. The North East face is steadily overhung and boasts a stunning, right arching finger crack called Babylon (5.12c), a good way of identifying that you are on the crag when coming out of the pines.

If you are looking to get away from the crowds at Donner, this is your spot.


Getting There 

Unfortunately, while the crag is not that far from the road it is a bit guarded by the thick manzanita bushes that are on the way toward and largely surrounding the crag.

Heading East from Boreal Ski resort on I-80 you will pass a small lake near the summit. After this lake, pull into a large gravel pullout. From the "parking lot", trend down the rude trail leading to a stream you will either ford or jump. From here generally trend South until you emerge on The Babylon Crag. There is not much of if any trail leading to the crag. Climbing is situated on the NE and South facing aspects.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.0 miles from here

9 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',3],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Babylon Crag:
Corner left of All American Hand Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 160'   
Far East   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
All American Arete   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
All American Hand Crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   
Browse More Classics in The Babylon Crag

Featured Route For The Babylon Crag
The overhanging crux

All American Hand Crack 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : The Babylon Crag
This route is located on the South face of The Babylon Crag. It is a little ways up a gully and at close range reveals a very parallel, almost Indian Creek quality crack (for the first 15' or so, anyway), that gradually widens from rattly fingers to wide hands in the space of 25 feet. The steadily overhanging face gives way to a scooped ledge that continues up a perfect low-angle hand crack to a horn. It felt pretty sandbagged at the grade to me, so perhaps a more modern, pussified consensus awa...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of The Babylon Crag Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down a corner to splitter route.
Looking down a corner to splitter route.
Babylon from the South.  In this photo you can planly see Babylon crack (although some of the route is hidden.  It ascends the steep overhang visible just at the bottom of the shadowed section to a horn about mid way to the next dihedral.  You can also see the 5.9 to the right ascending the left facing crack system to the ledge then the slab and right facing system above to the top.
Babylon from the South. In this photo you can pla...
Rico enjoying the splitter of Babylon.
Rico enjoying the splitter of Babylon.
Babylon Crack
BETA PHOTO: Babylon Crack

Comments on The Babylon Crag Add Comment
Show which comments
By Patrick Mulligan
Oct 18, 2013
There's been some recent route development on Babylon. Anyone care to spill the beta? A couple of the corners have been cleaned and there are anchors at the top of several very good looking cracks and slab climbs.
By Greg Patrick
From: Auburn, Ca
Dec 11, 2013
In the 1980s the Babylon Crack was THE crack climb for up and coming local hardmen to gauge themselves against. Last time I was there the "trail" had become completely overgrown due to lack of use. Don't let that deter you if you are up for 5.12+ crack. Climbing Babylon is a great feather in any climbers cap!
By Ryan Rougeux
From: Sacramento, California
Jul 6, 2014
July 1, 2014. We received a warning ticket when we parked at the suggested gravel pull out.
By Patrick Mulligan
Jul 6, 2014
I've taken to leaving a note on the dash when parking in the pull out saying "out hiking car not abandoned" and have not had a problem since I was warned about a year ago. There is alternative and only slightly longer aproach parking at the Rest Area and walking down from the PCT if folks don't want to risk it. This time of year its really a evening only crag, as the rock is dark and the routes face sun almost all day.
By Patrick Mulligan
Jul 11, 2014
Just a note on Rope Length. A 60M rope will only just make it from Box Top / Proof of Purchase anchors as well as Far East. From the anchors at the top of PFM or All American Arete or the corner left of All American Hand Crack you need a 70M rope.