This is a very good route that has a power start and a long slab upper section. It requires some power. Too bad it doesn't continue for 4 more pitches.
Start on a bulgy start to the left of the cave. The crux comes between bolts 2 and 3. Using your feet well is the key. After you clip bolt 3, the angle and difficult eases, fortunately. The middle section is very nice with fun 5.8 climbing on good knobs. The last bit increases in difficulty as the holds get smaller and less positive. If you are a good slab climber, this section won't be too tough. Finish at a 2 bolt anchor with chains.
Note, this is a rope stretcher with a 70m rope.
This starts to the left of the cave with a steep start for 3 bolts.
15 bolts, 2 bolt anchor with chains.
|By Jim Amidon|
Jun 2, 2013
Of the climbs we did, this one was the "best", and yes you need a 70m to get to the ground.
|By Greg D|
Aug 6, 2013
We had a 60m and did it anyway. Being very careful and simul rapping for max rope stretch, we were just barely able to reach the ground in the cave with 3 feet of downclimbing.
|By Alex A|
Sep 9, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun climb, but SANDBAG, Reefer Madness, 5.11- CCC, or Rain On, 5.10+, so much easier, the guide says power up bouldery jugs, you will need the power, a couple good holds, but no jugs, till after the crux, foot work is key to do this climb.
|By Mike Carrington|
Nov 4, 2013
Great climb! I however do not like the bolt spacing on the upper section. The easier section seemed to have bolts closer together and the higher slab crux had the bolts much farther apart. This gets your attention for sure!