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The Asylum

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The Asylum 


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Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Jul 7, 2010
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The Asylum - main wall

Description 

This is the Hardperson's area at Jack's canyon. The routes range from bouldery shorter routes to longer more continuous lines. There are very few lines that are easier than 5.11 due to the steep unfeatured nature of the rock. The routes vary from extremely overhung roof style routes to dead vertical thin face climbing routes. Overall there are over 60 established routes with around 15 projects, many of them open.

It is generally known as a winter area as most of the crag faces south, so it catches the AZ sun. However during the summer it does get shade until noon on the Main wall due to the steepness of the rock, allowing a few hours of comfortable climbing during other times of the year.

I've heard that this area is less "created" than some of the other areas of Jack's canyon and the bolts certainly aren't as close together so this crag probably doesn't deserve the bad reputation that the rest of Jack's has, so it might be worth checking out if you've avoided the main parts of Jack's Canyon.


Getting There 

Once going through the gate follow the main road (that heads towards the main Jack's Canyon) for .1 miles and make a left turn onto a rough dirt road. Follow this until you arrive at a water tank. There are three ways to go here, the left and straight option both take you to the Asylum. (The sharp right option takes you towards the parking area for Jack's Canyon). The left road seems slightly smoother but more likely to be muddy than the straight road. After approximately 2 miles from the entrance gate off of 87 you will see and obvious parking area on your right. The trail starts out of the back right corner. The road isn't too rough but some clearance would be nice, it might be passible in a low clearance vehicle but you will probably scrape alot. If it's muddy all bet's are off.


Walls 

Joe's Grotto: Short hard powerful routes, furthest leftmost wall at the Asylum.
Upper Tier Left: Again Short hard powerful routes, from Joe's grotto scramble up to the first ledge and walk around right on the shelf.
Left End 2nd Tier: From the "Upper Tier Left" navigate across the chasm to the shelf above the left side of "Main Wall".
Main Wall: The money wall taller routes on gorgeous limestone.
Right End 2nd Tier: Scramble up on the far right side of "Main Wall" to the shelf above the Right side of "Main Wall"
Right Wall: Furthest rightmost wall, easier routes from 5.5 to 5.11c are located here.


Resources: 

Guidebook: "Jack's Canyon Sport Climbing" www.jackscanyon.com/content/guidebook_jacks_canyon_sport_cli>>>

Dr. Topo: www.drtopo.com/submitted/asylum.pdf


9 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',2],['5.12',4],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Asylum:
Bloody Bones   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 60'   Main Wall
Browse More Classics in The Asylum

Featured Route For The Asylum
Lower tough section

Case Study 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b  AZ : Northern Arizona : ... : Main Wall
A bouldery start through the first two bolts leads to decent holds at the third bolt. Engaging climbing through good holds leads to a nice rest at the 5th bolt. From here a massive undercling move (climbers shorter than 5`5" or so beware) leads to big cranks between good holds with minimal feet. Finally a good flake provides a rest before clipping the chains....[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

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Photos of The Asylum Slideshow Add Photo
Asylum.  Lower left is Joe's Grotto, middle is Upper Tier, right side is the left end of the main wall.  DisturbingThePeace is in there for a sense of scale.
BETA PHOTO: Asylum. Lower left is Joe's Grotto, middle is Upp...
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