North Astro Dome. Peter Croft on the first pitch o...
These two immense formations at the western edge of the Wonderland Valley absolutely dominate the entire region and are visible from afar as easily recognizable landmarks.
One of the most popular destinations in the Wonderland, The Astro Domes hold an amazing collection of high quality routes on mostly excellent quality stone. Routes here range from 5.1 to 5.13 with single, two, three and even four pitch routes to challenge both body and mind. Climbing here is altogether different experience that will challenge your notions of Joshua Tree as nothing more than grainy slabs with it's soaring flake systems and intricate face climbing up steep thin crimps and edges.
Park at the Uncle Willie's dirt lot and follow an old road east to a fork in the road and then make a left, bearing north, towards an old pink building (Uncle Willie's Health Food Store).
Head left into a wash and some trees and follow the wash as it curves left (west) and then just past an old retaining wall/dam makes a right heading north. Continue along the wash/trail as it meanders between formations forming a narrow valley. After 0.5 miles or so and just past Foolproof Tower you'll reach the southern end of the expansive Wonderland Valley where the impressive Astro Domes will come into view.
Shortly after entering the vally the trail will fork - take the left fork heading west. A bit of scrambling through some rocks will gain level ground near the base of the massive Don Juan Boulder. Circle around the north side of the boulder heading towards the South Astro Dome aiming for the left of two gold streaks on the face and follow slabs uphill that parallel the base of the dome.
The North Astro Dome is reached by continuing along the base of the South Astro Dome and then down a bit of rocky terrain to the base. The approach usually takes between 30-45 minutes assuming no routefinding errors are made.
A very exciting and fun route and one of the best face climbs anywhere. Bring gear for the crack on the third pitch. There are just enough bolts to make the climbing sane, but a fall in a number of places could be bad news. Make sure both leader and follower are solid 5.10 climbers as the traverse at the end of pitch one is serious for both. The 2nd and 3rd pitches are easily linked and in fact recommended. The route starts from atop a large boulder on the left side of the northeast face of the...[more]Browse More Classics in CA