The Art Of War
|2,127 page views|
|Type: ||Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10b [details]|
|FA: ||Richard Rossiter, Pebby Johns, 5/2006|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Jun 8, 2006|
Bruce Hildenbrand stepping left below the roof.
This climb has a few cruxes in the low 5.10 range and probably clocks in at about 5.10b now that it has cleaned up. The hardest moves are ~1/2 of the way up the climb and require balance, not power. The route is long, continuous and in places complex for its modest grade. I believe I recall 9 clips to a 2-bolt anchor. The route will be a classic for the area- possibly the best 10 at Avalon.
Richard and Pebby have cleaned this route extensively, followed by another session of cleaning by Pebby and Bruno. They deserve some thanks and recognition for how hard they've worked at providing an 'instant classic' as opposed to a 'cleaner-upper.'
The final bit of Art of War has some remaining lichen, but it is not on the holds or at the crux so it does not detract from the route.
This route is presently the highest route (left-most) on the NE face of the third tier of Avalon. Come around the corner from th Wall of the Goddess and pass Charon's Boat/Merlin's Enigma to the Eastwardly aspect of the cliff and continue for ~100 meters, reaching an area where the trail is less beat down and distinct. Look for bolts going up a clean arete, just a few meters left of an obvious trad line with a fist crack.
9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. 60m rope required to lower or rap.
Joan "Pebby" Johns cleaning at the botttom of The ...
The lady Joan "Pebby" Johns at the bottom of The A...
BETA PHOTO: New routes on the far left side of Crack Land, par...
BETA PHOTO: This is an updated photo of Crack Land, part of Av...
Tony Bubb at the crux of 'Art Of War' (10c) at Ava...
|Comments on The Art Of War
|By Richard Rossiter|
Jun 9, 2006
Thanks, Tony. I am glad you enjoyed the route. It was indeed a lot of work to set up as a climb. I had considered this long narrow arete to have potential for the last 10 years. I had run out of less arduous projects, so it was time give it a go.
This climb also marked my return to life after a bad motorcycle crash 7 weeks ago. So I labored with a broken hand, broken rib, torn shoulder ligaments, knee surgery and a second head injury (one was clearly not enough). But not to complain...I'm back! Pebby was just fantastic on this route. I could not have done it without her hard work and boundless enthusiasm.
By the way, this route has 9 bolts along its 100 feet and 2 bolts with steel rings at the top. The crux is long and intricate. I thought it was fun, but that's just me. After all, there is no accounting for taste.
|By Dana Ernst|
Jun 11, 2006
My partner and I climbed 8 pitches (including the Art of War) on the 3rd Tier of Avalon on Saturday, June 10th. This climb and Ancient Fright were probably the best of the ones that we did. When you stand at the base of this climb, you get a sense of how much work went into cleaning the route. It is hard to believe that someone was that motivated to put this route up, but I'm glad that Richard and Pebby did. While the route is long and enjoyable, I don't think that it is as good as some of the other routes at Avalon. If you like remote and obscure climbs, then the Northeast face of Avalon is worth a visit.
|By Ron Olsen|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 16, 2006
An excellent pitch. Sustained climbing from the 3rd to the 6th bolts: finesse and balance, not power. One of the best 10s at Avalon.
|By Bruce Pech|
Aug 11, 2006
Interesting climbing from 10' below the crux roof to 10' above followed by a 5.7 slab leading to the anchors. It's a nice route but not quite of the same caliber as, e.g., Lust or Dominator. Nevertheless, I'd like to thank Richard and Pebby for undertaking the Herculean task of cleaning the lines on the NE Buttress. It's a nice place to climb on 90 degree summer days.