Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
The Art Of Slappiness ascends the overhanging arete left of Vertigo's second pitch. This short and powerful feature was bolted by Dan Michael (and named Nervous In Suburbia) but abandoned as an open project. From the belay ledge below the 11b corner of Vertigo, step left until directly beneath the exposed edge. Launch upward, protected by a small cam, an old pin and a bolt, and enjoy a slaphappy boulder problem (with one more bolt) that leads to a good rest. Clip the last bolt, float up the harder-than-they-look final moves, and belly flop onto the belay ledge with three bolts.
Approach The Art Of Slappiness by climbing the first long (two short pitches in the book) 5.9 pitch of Vertigo to a bolted belay ledge.
Place a small cam (#1 or #2 TCU) at the base of Vertigo's corner for your first piece. Bring one more small cam (#0 or #1 TCU) to protect the first hard moves, then clip a fixed pin and three bolts en route to the anchor. The bolted anchor is placed far back on the flat ledge atop this pitch. You will need very long runners in order to use it for lowering and/or toproping without debilitating rope drag.