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Art of Dreaming, The S 
Bedtime Story S 
Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled S 
Bobsled, The S 
Caffeine Buzz S 
Chore Boy T,S 
Daily Grind, The S 
Golden Slumber T,S 
Lucky Strikes S 
Morpheus T,S 
Mr. Sandman S 
My Buddy S 
Napster S 
Not So Obscure T 
Opener S 
Sleepless Child T,TR 
Sleepless in Boulder S 
Smell the Coffee S 
Snooze Button S 
Something Obscure T 
Tooth Fairy S 
Wake Up Call S 
War On Freedom S 

The Art of Dreaming 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas, Bob D'Antonio, 2002
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,434
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Apr 4, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, left side.

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  • Description 

    The Art of Dreaming starts just right of Sleepless in Boulder and climbs just below the obvious large right-leaning arch.

    Climb up into a short right-facing corner. Clip the second and third bolt, traverse right across the face (technical crux) on small holds, making hard moves up to a small overhang. Tackle the roof (5.12a) and climb up beautiful rock to a two-bolt anchor.

    Protection 

    11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


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    Art of Dreaming and nearby routes.
    BETA PHOTO: Art of Dreaming and nearby routes.

    Comments on The Art of Dreaming Add Comment
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    By Anonymous Coward
    Dec 18, 2002

    Interesting climbing for the first four bolts. Getting past the second bolt is a bit snappy. Moving right might be reachy for some people. A gem at 12a. Keep up the good work.
    By Dan Levison
    From: Boulder, CO
    Dec 18, 2002

    12a, you're joking A.C. The traverse after the third bolt and getting to the good holds under the roof is highly technical and merits a solid 12 b/c rating. The roof is 12a, and above is very easy. Anyway, I agree it's a great climb, especially now that it's cleaner due to the some climbing traffic.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Apr 19, 2003

    I'd second ac's assessment of the route's high-quality and 12a rating.
    By Chris Archer
    Feb 16, 2004
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    Surprisingly good. The route climbs much better than it looks. The crux is height /reach related, which may explain the differing opinions on the grade. For my size 5'8" & 0 A.I. it's 12b to the rest, followed by a fun 11a/b roof and a romp to the anchors.
    By Anonymous Coward
    May 24, 2004

    Did this route on Sunday. If you can get to the rest, the upper section is easy. At 5'7" (8") on a good day, height initially felt like a factor however, I sent the route on my second try. In contrast, I have had to work (4-8 attemps) several 12b's and 12c's outside of Boulder Canyon.
    By slim
    Administrator
    Aug 13, 2012
    rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

    I wasn't that impressed with this route, given the hype I had heard about it. Lacks an independent start, crumbly/flaky rock for the feet during the crux, the bolts through the crux are located to make the clips as awkward as possible, greasy unpleasant climbing, lowering and retrieving the draws is a pain, etc. Definitely glad to not have to do this one again.

    Hard to grade as the crux is just greasy. Probably 12a during cool dry conditions but really gropy when warm and humid. The roof probably isn't even 11a (not sure how it gets described as 12a, the holds are huge and the feet are good). Mostly easy filler climbing above, which is ironically probably the best part.