|Type: ||Trad, 6 pitches, 900', Grade III|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]|
|FA: ||Bob Jensen, Erik Anderson|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||1,586|
|Submitted By: ||Elush on Aug 9, 2012|
|Good Page?||2 people like this page. Your opinion: |
following the fourth pitch.
Pitch 1: Climb up slabs left of Burning down the house to a left facing boot feature. Head up and right past a bolt, belay under the roof.
Pitch 2: Traverse right under roof to a place where a mantle is possible, after the mantle clip a bolt and traverse back left to another bolt protected slab move followed by fun gear protected face climbing. Utilize long runners to virtually eleminate any rope drag. Belay on ledge, left of the tree.
Pitch 3: Walk right on ledge to a bolt. Continue up the right facing feature to a bolt. Easy climbing gains the base of the arch. Follow the 5.11 bolt line through some dime edges then head left below the roof, to a single bolt/gear belay.
Note:You can also head up and left at the arch for 5.9R old school adventure climbing.(Watch out for the Death blocks!)
Pitch 4: The Fantasy Funland- Head up and left to first bolt. Then climb into a fantastic stemming corner which leads to a gear protected roof (make sure to extend any gear placed here or suffer the consequences!) Easier climbing takes you past a bolt to a second bolt where the wall steepens. Use a crucial knob to gain the slab above.One more bolt protects the climbing to the belay ledge.
Pitch 5: The Burning Arches- This pitch begins at the base of a huge granite shield. Climb past seven bolts filled with smeary slab goodness, until another ledge is reached.
Pitch 6: The Burning Arches- Tighten your shoes up and get ready! Six bolts of technical smearing and edging puts you on a ledge below the last roof of the route. Once through the roof clip your last bolt and get those TCU's ready. Several fun Bouldery mantles await protected by bomber gear in horizontals. After the last mantle Pull up in to a left facing crack with a small tree.Follow this crack up right to a belay ledge.
One or two more pitches of easy to moderate climbing will gain the summit head right to join Burning Down The House/Lyme Line or Left
Far left Side of Fairview Dome between Burning Down The House and Always Arches. Head for a feature that resembles a left facing boot below the apex of the arch.
Doubles from Blue to red aliens (0-.5 camalots)
Single 00, .75-2 Camalots
1 Set small nuts
7 Extendable draws
2 Doubles for roofs
From: Los Angeles, for now
Jun 14, 2013
Just a note to the FA team - amazing job and killer Trip Report.