Type: Trad, 130 ft (39 m)
FA: Geoff Sutton (solo), 1940s
Page Views: 563 total · 4/month
Shared By: Nick Russell on Mar 20, 2013
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

You & This Route


2 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

A beautiful climb up the blunt arete at the right of the Morning Slab, probably the best route at its grade in the Gorge. The rock has got very polished at parts, which is especially evident at the crux about 2/3 of the way up. The slick rock has caused climbers to attempt to bypass this via a slightly steeper line to the right.

The climb is about 40m long and easily manageable as a single pitch; however guidebooks often split it into two or even three pitches.

Location Suggest change

This is the line up the blunt arete at the right of Morning Slab - can't be missed! Descent can be made from the left of Lunchtime Ledge off a tree anchor with two 50m ropes (a single 60m will not suffice). Alternatively, continue up one of the Evening Wall climbs: Bob's Climb would make a consistent continuation, or Petros is an excellent line if you want something more spicy. From the top you can walk down paths either side of the wall.

Protection Suggest change

Protects well with nuts. Maybe worth taking a few cams - particularly in the smaller sizes - to give more options if you're a beginning trad leader. Ample opportunities to split the climb into multiple pitches. Belay from any of the trees on Lunchtime Ledge at the top.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments