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The Arete 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jonathan Garlough & Joshua Corbett
Page Views: 1,781
Submitted By: chinos on Jun 11, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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jon g on "the arete"

Description 

The Arete is a second pitch variation to Layback Route. Climb the first pitch of Layback Route to the pin anchor. Continue up the second and move left under the roof. Take the open book corner with a hand crack to a stance ledge. Move right onto the super exposed arÍte plugging gear in horizontals. Pull the lip to a big ledge with a bolt anchor.

Location 

Second Pitch variation on Layback Route

Protection 

Bring A Rack to #3


Photos of The Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Jon and Lauren getting some sun on the Arete.
Jon and Lauren getting some sun on the Arete.
Jonathan Garlough leading The Arete. <br /> <br />Photo by James Dickson
Jonathan Garlough leading The Arete. Photo by Jam...
Jon leaving the belay ledge on the FA
Jon leaving the belay ledge on the FA
The top of the Arete just befor the ancors went in
The top of the Arete just befor the ancors went in
View of the pond from the top you can see Gunstock in the background
View of the pond from the top you can see Gunstock...
Lee Hansche On the Arete. Fantastic climb.
Lee Hansche On the Arete. Fantastic climb.
Jonathan Garlough & Lincoln Tetherly at the pin anchor on Layback Route gearing up for The Arete. <br /> <br />Photo by James Dickson
Jonathan Garlough & Lincoln Tetherly at the pin an...
Lee on belay and Loran following.
Lee on belay and Loran following.
jon g nearing the top of "the arete"
jon g nearing the top of "the arete"
Jonathan Garlough belaying Lincoln Tetherly on The Arete. <br /> <br />Photo by James Dickson
Jonathan Garlough belaying Lincoln Tetherly on The...
Climber getting ready to step out onto The Arete on a hot fall day with some foliage starting to show.
Climber getting ready to step out onto The Arete o...

Comments on The Arete Add Comment
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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 5, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

the 1st pitch is a bit less classic but the money pitch is MONEY! great classic trad climbing! big roof, big corner, splitter cracks, exposure and an amazing view... i really want to come back and shoot photos of it :)
By JayMorse
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
Apr 20, 2014

The second pitch is one of the best pitches of trad I've ever done. Amazing climbing, very good protection (albeit thoughtful under the roof), committing moves, exposure, beautiful views on an aesthetic route... does it get better?

The first pitch (shared with Layback Route) was also quite fun, and the 5.8 3rd pitch was very good too. Very good protection throughout. Get on it!

I suggest walking off right or rapping a different route. Another party tried rapping with two 60m ropes and weren't confident that they would reach the ground in one rap, so they had to do a second one. The anchor at the top of P1 is 3 pins, so you will not be able to rap from that station unless you want to leave gear. I'm guessing two 70's would make it from the top, but don't take my word for it.

A single rope decent with a 60m would be 3 raps and you would have to do a mini-pitch, or an on-rappell traverse from the pin anchor over to the right to rap off the thread anchor of the adjacent route for your final rap.

Plus, I'm sure someone working out the roof traverse would not appreciate someone rapping down. I say, just avoid it.
By DustinH
Jul 12, 2014

Great route. You can easily hit the ground with a single 60m from the top of the second pitch.