Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Bank
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
2010A S 
2150 A.D. S 
5.10 Crack T 
5.10a corner T 
5.11 Arete S 
5.9 crack T 
A Sharp S 
Abu Simbel  S 
Aerial Solution S 
Alcohollica  S 
Alfalfa Omega S 
Another Bolted Crack T,S 
Aoxamoxoa S 
Apple Cracks, The S 
Aspiring Frog S 
B Flat S 
B/C S 
Baby Face Nelson S 
Back To The Future S 
Bambi Meets Godzilla S 
Binge and Purge S 
Birthing the Piggy T 
Bits and Pieces S 
Black Hole Sun S 
Bridget the Midget S 
Bum Cakes (formerly listed as Buns) S 
C Major T 
Cat Ate My Homework, The S 
Cerebral Brain Freeze S 
CJ & The Lesbian Seagull S 
Concentrated Weirdness S 
Courage and Enlightenment S 
Crab Nation S 
Dancin` Shoes S 
Dave Dangle S 
Deconstructing Harry S 
Dillinger S 
Disciples of Hell S 
Doggie Style T 
Don Show, The S 
Dust Lust S 
Emperor's Robe S 
Energy Before Ecstasy S 
Ethics? What Ethics? S 
Flesh Tuxedo S 
From Russia With Love S 
Future Fossil S 
Gambino S 
Gen X ation (aka Musso Route) S 
Generation X S 
Ginger Midget, The S 
Goodfellas S 
Harry S 
Heaven is Waiting S 
Heavy Weather S 
Heretic S 
Hostile Crankover S 
Ice Cream Hangover S 
Incredible Weather S 
jasonbecker.com S 
Knot Too Many Roaches S 
Ladies' Night In Buffalo S 
Large Marge S 
Le Petit Verdon S 
Le Pincher S 
Lefty S 
Lesser of Two Evils S 
Let Me Out S 
Leverage S 
Lick and a Promise S 
Lime Street S 
Living in America S 
Lloyd T 
Lost Planet Airman S 
Loves Me Like a Rock S 
Lynch Mob S 
Ma Barker S 
Machine Gun Kelly S 
McFly S 
Metamusso S 
Mighty Mouse S 
Misery S 
Mismatched Partners S 
Neopolitan Headrush S 
New Comer (aka New Corner) S 
No Future for the Timid S 
No Rest For the Wicked S 
Number 1 Super Guy S 
On the Mushroom S 
Once Upon a Time S 
Otis S 
Peking S 
Pennies and Piggydust T 
Peter Pan S 
Pig City Nights S 
Pink Torpedo S 
Piņon Slalom S 
Plate Tectonics S 
Poncho S 
Poncho and the Three Perverts S 
Power Broker S 
Pretty Boy Floyd S 
Primal Scream S 
Project Focus S 
Puking Yuppies T,S 
Purple Packer Smacker S 
R.A.M.M. S 
Razor Burn (aka Stewart's Slab) S 
Richter Scale S 
Ripped T 
Rock Frog S 
Scarf and Barf S 
Scarface S 
Season Down Under S 
Shady Character S 
Shelfish S 
Silver Rain S 
Solitude S 
Sonic Youth S 
Soprano S 
Sparkle In The Rain S 
Starving Hippies S 
Staying Power S 
Stick It S 
Stomach Stapler S 
Stormy Weather S 
Stranger in Moscow S 
Sty in the Sky S 
SuedeHead S 
Surreal Estate S 
Sweepings, The S 
Taping Tendons S 
Team Anorexia S 
Tendon Respite S 
This is Your Brain S 
Thunder Tactics S 
Thunder Thighs S 
Tired Arms Recovery Program (T.A.R.P.) S 
Tribal Boundary S 
Trundle S 
Tuff Shed (aka B&C) S 
Unknown 5.7 S 
Unsaid, The (aka The Brothel) S 
Unusual Weather S 
Ussen S 
War In The Banks S 
Welcome to Shelf Road S 
What's Biting Me? S 
Who Asked You? S 
Why Left S 
Will Purr For Treats S 
You Were Meant For Me S 
Unsorted Routes:

The Apple Cracks 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: retrobolted - MJM & RAMM?
Season: Winter is great!
Page Views: 2,389
Submitted By: Matt Strauser on Dec 3, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Warming up on Apple Cracks.

Description 

This is a fun 5.7 with a variety of moves. It is well protected with a lot of rests and is a good route for new sport climb leaders.


Location 

SLIM is one of the first climbs on the Piggy Bank Wall. It is just left of Crab Nation and just right of a detatched pillar.


Protection 

8 bolts to the anchor.



Photos of The Apple Cracks Slideshow Add Photo
Stupid, Loudmouth, Idiot Moron.
BETA PHOTO: Stupid, Loudmouth, Idiot Moron.
Ross, leading SLIM.
Ross, leading SLIM.
Myong about to take on the crux.
Myong about to take on the crux.
Taking in the stellar climbing at Shelf Road at the top of Stupid Loudmouth Idiot Moron.
Taking in the stellar climbing at Shelf Road at th...
Comments on The Apple Cracks Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matt Strauser
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Dec 3, 2010

If you know who got the FA, please let me know so I can update it. Thanks.

By slim
Administrator
Dec 5, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Probably an MJM route.

By slim
Administrator
Feb 22, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Note to admin: this route should be renamed "The Apple Cracks" as it already existed as a gear route (Shelf Road Rock 2nd ed., Mark Van Horn, page 123).

Bolts and hangers: $50
Bosch: $500
Retrobolting an existing gear line and renaming it to stick-it-to-some-guy-who-called-you-out.... PRICELESS.

By Glenn Schuler
From: Monument, Co.
Feb 23, 2011

Retrobolting a 5.7 obscure chosspile crack, not surprised. The original name given by the FA is The Apple Cracks and that should be the only name. Other *quality* cracks at Shelf have been retro'd like I Claudius and Crack of Dawn. Did they change the names of those? Don't even start with this AKA crap.

Slim, I'm guessing I'll have my own chunkfest route at the West Bank named in my honor soon enough. (Piggy Bank is ghey...I'm not calling it that. It's been known as the "West end of the Bank" or "West Bank" for 20 years. WTF???)

By J Antin
From: Denver, CO
Mar 10, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

This route is actually pretty enjoyable, especially if you climb straight up the face.