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East Wall Inner (Exorcist Area)
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Aero Space 
Antichrist (aka Small Town, Big Girls), The 
Buenos Aires 
Casual 
Cat on a Hot Tin Roof 
Chesire for President 
Doin' Life 
Exorcist 
Hemroidic Terror 
It 
Jaws 
Love Goddess 
Military Industrial Complex 
Nurn's Romp 
Rings Around Uranus 
Search for Klingons 
That 
Thin Air 
Three Bolts Closer To Divorce 
Unknown 
Unknown 2 
Wacko Wall 
What 

The Antichrist (aka Small Town, Big Girls) 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: (TR) Kevin Thaw, 1988, FL: Hamish Morrison, Mike Rodriguez, Alan Bartlett, 1989
Page Views: 240
Submitted By: john durr on Apr 11, 2009
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Description 

Shenanigans like a stick clip help get the first bolt clipped. Jump or more shenanigans gain the first big hold. The crux for me was clipping the third bolt. An extendo-clip quick draw may be handy to overcome the 3rd bolt location issue.

Tall people rejoice.


Location 

This is the short, juggy 3 bolt face right of the start of Exorcist and It.


Protection 

3 great bolts, 1"-3" cams for belay. Follow the finger crack second half of It, 5.9 to the bolted rappel anchors of Exorcist to the left. One 60 meter rope just makes it.



Comments on The Antichrist (aka Small Town, Big Girls) Add Comment
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By dgerb
Nov 18, 2013

If you want to dyno to the sharp first hold, I suggest you tape the top joint of the middle fingers of your right hand. This will prevent you from flaying your fingers Theon Greyjoy style.

I didn't have enough daylight to climb the top half so I left a bail link on the third bolt. Enjoy!