|East Wall Inner (Exorcist Area)
The Antichrist (aka Small Town, Big Girls)
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 35'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA: ||(TR) Kevin Thaw, 1988, FL: Hamish Morrison, Mike Rodriguez, Alan Bartlett, 1989|
|Page Views: ||240|
|Submitted By: ||john durr on Apr 11, 2009|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Shenanigans like a stick clip help get the first bolt clipped. Jump or more shenanigans gain the first big hold. The crux for me was clipping the third bolt. An extendo-clip quick draw may be handy to overcome the 3rd bolt location issue.
Tall people rejoice.
This is the short, juggy 3 bolt face right of the start of Exorcist and It.
3 great bolts, 1"-3" cams for belay. Follow the finger crack second half of It, 5.9 to the bolted rappel anchors of Exorcist to the left. One 60 meter rope just makes it.
|Comments on The Antichrist (aka Small Town, Big Girls)
Nov 18, 2013
If you want to dyno to the sharp first hold, I suggest you tape the top joint of the middle fingers of your right hand. This will prevent you from flaying your fingers Theon Greyjoy style.
I didn't have enough daylight to climb the top half so I left a bail link on the third bolt. Enjoy!