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The Anomaly Boulder
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Anomaly 
Anti-Chemist, The 
Pugilist, The 
Sit Down And Be Counted 
Sqeeze or Tease 

The Anti-Chemist 

Hueco: V7-8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V7-8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Joshua Dreher
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 337
Submitted By: Joshua Dreher on Jul 1, 2007

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Description 

The Anti-Chemist climbs the steep bulge between Sit Down And Be Counted and The Pugilist. Start with your right hand on a good side pull (directly above the left hand start hold for The Pugilist) and left hand around the bulge on a bad, vertical pinky slot/four finger sidepull. Do a big move with your left hand to a sloper then do another big move back right to an edge (the edge you grab on The Pugilist (with you left hand) from the undercling). From here do a few hard bump moves using a really small edge, a three finger crimp and a horrible quartz ball right below the lip. The last move is the most exciting and involves a blind slap over the lip to a hidden jug. The slopey nature of this problem definitely makes it feel like a solid V8 in mid-summer


Protection 

Two pads and a spotter.



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