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 ADVANCED
Lost Orbit Rock - East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angry Inch, The S 
Grin and Bear It T 
Hannibal Lefter T 
Hubble S 
Longest Yard, The S 
Lost Highway S 
Lost Orbit S 
Love at First Bight T 
Lunar Eclipse S 
Nowhere To Go But Down S 
Real Men of Genius S 
Road Crew S 
Silly Millimeter S 
Slacker S 
Sloping Beauty S 
Stand Up Comedy S 
You Know What I'm Going To Do To You? T 

The Angry Inch 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Chris Miller and Pete Paredes, August 2001
Page Views: 647
Submitted By: C Miller on Apr 5, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Sloping Beauty (5.10b), The Angry Inch (5.10d) and...

Description 

Boulder up a left-slanting rail to a high first bolt and then work up and right on crimpy edges (crux) to snag a jug at the 3rd bolt. From here you have two choices: 1) the original finish - which works up featured rock, clips the last bolt up and left of the arete and then mantles onto the south face where a short bit of face climbing leads to anchors. 2) a newer direct finish - from the third bolt continue straight up, clipping a bolt on the right side of the arete and finish up with the crux of The Longest Yard.

A fun, bouldery route which is even better with the newer direct finish, but unfortunately the fun is over all too soon.

Location 

Located on the far-left side of the east face, this is actually on the southeast corner of the formation and starts behind a small tree.

Protection 

4 bolts, chain anchors


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