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Angel's Share, The 
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The Angel's Share 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Stone and Jeff Baldwin
Page Views: 805
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 13, 2007
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Description 

A fairly long climb by Maple standards, The Angel's Share starts out low angled and progressively steepens to vertical below the first bolt. The climbing is on vertical to slightly overhanging rock the rest of the way. Positive holds most of the way, along with some pockets, sidepulls, and pinches. Depending on the season you may disturb some of the resident wasps.


Location 

The Angel's Share climbs light colored rock between two black streaks. The first two bolts and hangers are reddish brown in color.


Protection 

8 bolts, Metolius rap hangers



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By Kenny Clark
From: State College, PA
Apr 3, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

A long and sustained route. I didn't feel like there was a defining crux, just relax, hold on and push to the anchors. A slight bulge about 60-70 ft up made for some fun moves.

By darrell hodges
May 22, 2011

After reading Perins description, I'm no sure which route is Angels Share.
There are two routes here that share an anchor. I thought the right hand one is Angels Share, but the left one has reddish brown bolts at the start, which I guess would make that Angels Share according to Perins description.
The left route seems significantly harder than the right one.