2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
The Beer Can sports four (one without hangers) bolted climbs, but the approach, long rappels and odd nature of the climbs gives the feeling of a full on trad adventure to the climber willing to seek this gem. For those who bring the rack, a 5.9 offwidth also awaits to round out the climbing. I found the two 5.10s, rated 10b and 10c in Rolofson's book, to be switched, the 10c felt 10b and the 10b felt 10c. Bring 14 draws, a 60 meter rope and the truth!
The three sport routes all lead to one set of anchors (three bolts) and begin at small belay stances; each stance is bolted. The approach is short, but I found no obvious route through the brambles, and a 3rd class scramble leads to the belays.
Park as for the Boulderado and cross Boulder Creek. There is a Tyrolean here. Looking up stream the Beer Can is easily spotted: a large granite area capped by a smaller face of rock. Hike up through the brush and scramble the last 25 feet to the belay area.
This is the middle of three bolted lines on the Beer Can. It turns the big roof on the right, then breaks left and climbs a thin face.From the top of the approach trail to the Beer Can, scramble up to a small ledge with a two-bolt belay anchor. Continue 20' right to another 2-bolt belay anchor; start here.Climb up and right, clipping the first 7 bolts of Drink to Puke. Use long runners on the 6th and 7th bolts to minimize rope drag. Break left over the roof (5.9), and c...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Local Information for The Angel of Death (formerly known as The Beer Can)
If you cross the creek by the upper end of the parking area across from the Boulderado, you'll find a trail angling up and right toward the left side of the Beer Can. Take this trail up to the rock, and scramble up to a small ledge with two bolted belay anchors. The left belay anchor is for Hydraulic Sandwich (10b); the right anchor is for Drink To Puke (10c) and Icy Paralyzer (11a). There's enough room on the ledge to stash your pack, but you may want to gear up below, since the ledge is quite exposed. Bring a 60-meter rope, 10 quickdraws, 5 extendable runners, something for the belay anchors, and something for the 3-bolt anchor at the top. The routes zig-zag, and doing them with only short quickdraws will cause severe rope drag. All three routes are well-protected and a lot of fun: two stars for clean rock, airy moves, and variety. Hydraulic Sandwich has 12 bolts, Drink To Puke has 14, and Icy Paralyzer has 15, all in 90 to 95 feet. Drink To Puke seemed easier than10c; perhaps 9+ or 10a; the ratings on the other routes seemed accurate. All three routes are well-described in Rossiter's and Rolofson's guidebooks.