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Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anchovy Caper, The S 
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 
Arugula, Arugula S 
Barbershop Duet T 
Big Easy, The S 
Boats from Cuba T 
Bonnie and Clyde S 
Bourbon Street S 
Brendan's Bitches T 
Cereal Killer S 
Climb and Punishment S 
Clusterphobia S 
Far From Feral S 
Fish Corner  S,TR 
Flying Squirrel S 
Green Mile S 
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b S 
Juicy Fingers T 
Maltese Falcon, The S 
Maria's Variation T 
Men In White Suits S 
Mentally Disturbed S 
Mesresha (open project) S 
Metamorphosis S 
Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) S 
Rainbow S 
Scene of the Crime S 
Sesame Street S 
Slack T 
Toxic Gumbo S 
White Buttress, The T 

The Anchovy Caper 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mark Sprague
Page Views: 2,023
Submitted By: lee hansche on Apr 24, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (73)
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nicole starting up anchovy

Description 

Another nice recent addition to the area. The climbing on the slabby section is technical and thought provoking. The bottom is the crux for most (unless the trees are used for feet).

Start up the face between the trees on sidepulls and crimps till you can gain the lower angle face above. Continue following the bolts while you smear and layback your way past good flakes on the left to the top. This upper part is very fun if you like that kind of stuff.

Location 

Around the corner left of Green Mile (5.9) starting between a couple of trees.

Protection 

7 bolts to bolt anchor.


Photos of The Anchovy Caper Slideshow Add Photo
the line of anchovie caper
BETA PHOTO: the line of anchovie caper
Tim having fun.
Tim having fun.
eric tops out
eric tops out
eric down low
eric down low
nicole at the top
nicole at the top
the route starts between 2 trees, with the first move being the crux
BETA PHOTO: the route starts between 2 trees, with the first m...

Comments on The Anchovy Caper Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 24, 2012
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 21, 2009

FA- me, a couple years ago I think. There is an easier version that Ward finished bolting for me that continues up the corner a little to the right, than goes to the same anchor.. useful when Anchovy is wet and you want to get to the upper pitch, that is nice in it's own right. Not sure of the name we gave to it.

The clean corner just to the right, with the overhanging start, I did as a boulder problem.. no name that i can remember. You can TR it easily from the variation mentioned above
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 21, 2009

I updated the description to give you credit...

i've climbed the corner you mention, its fun and there is one high bolt, why not put one more so folks will climb it?
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 22, 2009

I'll have to look at it again. Is the bolt stick clipable? I think we just were thinking we didn't want the rock there to look anymore like a pin cushion than it did already
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Apr 22, 2009

"we didn't want the rock there to look anymore like a pin cushion than it did already"
Love it. hence why Rumney's got the best developers. Keep things under control.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 22, 2009

cant stick clip it with your average stick clip its like 20? feet up... im glad you were trying not to over bolt but its one bolt from a nice line...
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 23, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

how hard is this overhanging corner you all speak of?
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 23, 2009

It's been a while, but I would guess maybe V2. It is kind of highball as a boulder problem though
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Sep 13, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I have posted the dihedral that is mentioned above as its own route now, it is entitled High Bolter, please check it out and let me know what you think. Thanks.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Mar 20, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Unless you're really solid at 5.8 I'd recommend stick clipping this. Moves at the bottom are very thoughtful (and yes, "bouldery" whatever the heck that actually means). Once above those moves and at the second bolt, it still has a couple interesting moves left. It's definitely a worth while climb.
By Brendan Blanchard
From: Strafford, NH
Jul 17, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun route, glad I decided to get on it. I found the smoothest way to do that last mantle is to get the best left hand on the sloping rail, then palm on the flat edge with your right, then mantle it through. Felt not-awkward, which is impressive for me and mantling.
By S. Neoh
Nov 24, 2012

Two or 2.5 stars for sure though I think Maltese Falcon and Metamorphosis (both nearby) are better at 5.8/5.8+.