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The Amphitheater

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Walk in the Light T 
Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) T 
Aloof Roof T 
Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do T 
Command Performance T 
Do or Dive T 
Doan's Pills T 
Excellent Adventure T 
Finger Love T 
High Wire T 
Nuclear Crayon T 
Quaker State T 
Raise Hell T 
Shit Hook T 
Stab in the Dark T 
Step and Fetch T 
Wailing Wall T 
Zombie Woof T 

The Amphitheater  


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Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ryan Williams on Nov 3, 2011
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Description 

The Amphitheater is a large buttress near the north end of of Moore's Wall. The wall forms a sort of cirque, hence the name. Raise Hell to Step and Fetch get a lot of sun in cool months, while the routes to the right are cooler in summer.

The rock here has always seemed a bit different to me than other areas at Moore's. The holds are more friction dependent, and you will encounter more slopers (jugs and crimps) than at the North End or the Circus Wall. This intimidating buttress offers classics in every grade and should not be missed.

Getting There 

Once you have taken the left onto the powerline road, walk for a few minutes until you see a park sign on the right for the Sentinel Buttress. Continue PAST this sign on the powerline road for 5 more minutes until you get to another sign and a trail on your right. Take this right and walk up the winding trail for 10 minutes until you hit the Amphitheater. You'll hit the wall right around the start of Wailing Wall.

Descent Options 

There are several different walls in The Amphitheater, all with different descent options. Many of the route descriptions mention descents, but some do not.

For Excellent Adventure and Wailing Wall, find a tree w/ fixed gear and do a double rope rappel.

For the routes on the main "sun wall" including Step and Fetch, scramble down to the fixed anchor directly above Quaker State. A 60m rope BARELY gets you down with stretch.

For all routes right of Step and Fetch, there are two rap stations near the top of the wall (webbing/tat). One (left one) is 100 feet above a bolted rap station that also serves as an anchor for Stab in the Dark. Farther right is a newer looking station (tree) that is directly above Shit Hook. If using the right most station, it would be difficult to get down with a single rope, since it is a ways right of the bolted station (Stab anchors).

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.2 miles from here

18 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',3],['5.8',3],['5.9',3],['5.10',6],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Amphitheater:
Wailing Wall   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring)   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
High Wire   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Aloof Roof   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 90'   
Raise Hell   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Step and Fetch   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
Shit Hook   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 95'   
Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Do or Dive   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Finger Love   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
A Walk in the Light   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 95'   
Nuclear Crayon   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Zombie Woof   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Stab in the Dark   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Quaker State   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in The Amphitheater

Featured Route For The Amphitheater
Pretty good view of the Wailing Wall. Climber: Alex Carry

Wailing Wall 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  NC : Moore's Wall : The Amphitheater
A real gem for the grade, Wailing Wall may bring back memories of the Gunks if you've ever led High E. The amazing holds and great protection on the steep face are matched only by the exposure.Starting at the left end of the Amphitheatre, either begin by climbing a chimney right of the arete, or (more exciting) climb the nice arete itself. Continue up level with the base of a roof, then move left onto the exposed face and straight up through a notch to the trees. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

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