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The Amphitheater
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.9, The 
AMS 
Chocolate Chicken Pot Pie 
Cuba and Nova's Block Party 
Dribble Glass 
Fear of the Dark 
Mas y Mas Moss 
Mr. Dubious 
Nendo Dango 
Nguvu 
Poligrip 
Reprieve 
Supramanya 

The Amphitheater 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,400'
Lat, Long: 35.8228, -106.5145 Map
Page Views: 4,179. Good page?   
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on May 30, 2009

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What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 


BETA PHOTO: Headwall routes.

Description 

A big, tall and impressive wall with many steep routes. It's slowly becoming a destination area on its own and certainly worth a gander for UEF visitors. Some sections down low include dubious rock between decent holds and rock.


Getting There 

This wall is upstream of where the approach trail enters the valley about 200 yards upstream from Brier Patch (Creek Wall). Cross the creek on the bridge/downed tree near the Brier Patch (Creek Wall) and head upstream staying high on a bench above the creek when necessary. This wall is the first huge wall you'll come to. It faces southeast so it sees sun until mid to late afternoon.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Amphitheater:
Fear of the Dark   5.10c     Sport, 60 feet   
Chocolate Chicken Pot Pie   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Mr. Dubious   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   
The 5.9   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
AMS   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet   
Reprieve   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet   
Supramanya   5.11d     Sport, 70 feet   
Dribble Glass   5.11d     Sport, 2 pitches, 80 feet   
Nguvu   5.12a     Sport, 70 feet   
Poligrip   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet   
Browse More Classics in The Amphitheater

Featured Route For The Amphitheater
All the routes on the headwall. If you're going to tick all three, it's worth staging at the mid-way anchor, otherwise take some long runners and do each in a single pitch. It works well to clip the first bolt on the headwall and then unclip the anchor (consider taking lockers).

AMS 5.11b  NM : Jemez Valley Area : ... : The Amphitheater
Named AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) because a hard-core sport climber claimed he got nose bleeds and headaches from being two pitches up. You can avoid AMS by doing it in a single pitch and either runnering the mid-way anchor with a long sling or by clipping the first bolt on the headwall and then unclipping the anchor. Fun jug haul on steep rock. The first half to the mid-way anchor is mungy 5.8, but it's worth it for the fun climbing above. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM


Photos of The Amphitheater Slideshow Add Photo
Reprieve and Mr. Dubious.

BETA PHOTO: Reprieve and Mr. Dubious.


Comments on The Amphitheater Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ethan Coon
May 22, 2011

It looks like there are four routes up the roof containing 5.9 and Dribble Glass. Does anyone know what the other two are?