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Chapel Crag
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Alter Boy, The 

The Alter Boy 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dave Vuono, 2008
Page Views: 76
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Nov 20, 2012
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Description 

Sustained and sequential face climbing up the right side of wall characterize this short, powerhouse-of-a-route.

A delicate boulder problem through an awkward open-book greets you right off the deck. You can choose to protect it with a .4 or .5 Camalot, or just get a good spot. Once on the ledge, follow sandy pinches, shallow dishes, and small crimps through several cruxes to a somewhat heartbreaker move directly below the anchor.

Rests?--one, perhaps two, if you can sort out the feet and the sweet spot at the small overlap.


Location 

The right hand route.


Protection 

5 bolts and an optional Camalot.



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By Derek Doucet
Nov 20, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

I'm not sure that's the entire name originally given...fun route, definitely worth doing if you're in the area and have done the other routes of similar grade at the 82. The .12a on this mini cliff is also worthwhile.