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The Alpenglow Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chockstone Arete, The S 
Equilibrium S 
Fragile Balance S 
Help Gain S 
Splittsville? S 
Un-named S 

The Alpenglow Wall  


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 25, 2002
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The main chimney at Alpenglow. Chockstone Arete is...

Description 

The main crag offering several leading options is The Alpenglow Wall. It is the primary wall you encounter after crossing the talus field and humping up the last steep section of the hill. The crag sweeps to the left with South to Westward exposure and is host to the best and longest sport climbs on th hill. Most routes run between 50 and 75 feet in length, are bolt protected, and come with lowering stations. Difficulty begins at 5.10 and runs to mid 5.12. As indicated in the comments to the Keystone area, the Chockstone Arete is an interesting contender for best route on the hill at 5.11a.

L->R:

A. Why Ask Why, 8.
B. Seams Fun, 8+.
C. Help Gain, 11, 65', bolts.
D. Equilibrium, 9+, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Fragile Balance, 11-, 1p, bolts.
F. Splitsville, 9+, 1p, 60', bolts.
G1. Chockstone Arete, 11-, 1p, 80', bolts.
G2. Chockstone Arete Right, 10+, 1p, bolts.
H. Rockin' Science, 12-, 1p, bolts.
I. Hung By Hooks, 11, 1p.
J. Checkerboard, 11+, 1p.
K. Tognar, 12, 1p, TR.

Getting There 

Hike up past the talus field for 100 yards or less. The trail will dump you out at the base of The Alpenglow Wall.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.4 miles from here

6 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',0],['5.11',3],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Alpenglow Wall:
Equilibrium   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
The Chockstone Arete   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Fragile Balance   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Browse More Classics in The Alpenglow Wall

Featured Route For The Alpenglow Wall
5.9, 5.11, 5.9+ or 5.10a if you do not use the chimney.

Splittsville? 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a CO : Keystone a.k.a. Montezuma : The Alpenglow Wall
The crux of this route is between the second and third bolt. A fall here could be painful due to a the jagged rock right behind the climber. It might make for a better top-rope. This becomes a harder climb without stemming in the chimney....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for The Alpenglow Wall
Comments on The Alpenglow Wall Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Jun 27, 2002
Hey hey - a lot of us ex-local Breck climbers put up these routes, including the ones on the lower Hause Rock block - no one seems to be around anymore, including John Sore, Lance Hadfield, and Matt O'Connor, but there is a lot of good climbing to be done up there, not to mention an unfinished Eric Decaria route that splits off of Crystal Ball (12a) on Hause Rock, which could bring Summit County into the early 90's with it's first 5.14.

The Alpenglow wall is very good granite at altitude, although the rates seem to be creeping up. We alsways called the Chockstone Arete about 10c, but it may have changed over the years, but last year it still seemed about that grade. I only say that because the routes up there actually start at 5.7, there is a nice bolte 5.8 and 5.9, so don't avoid it b/c you think it is over your head...

Also check out the good routes on the lower Hummingbird Boulder, the Satellite Wall to the far left of Alpenglow, and most of the routes on Hause Rock. Crystal Ball and the driect start to it, Sky Pilot (12b/c) are really really good...

have fun
By Dan Green
Jun 30, 2002
None of these comments really describe where the rocks are. Is this area on Keystone the ski mountain? If so, where on the mountain? North, South, East , West face? How far up the mountain? Are there trails. Where should I start from to get there? Do these questions seem reasonable? I would just like to go there, as I will be attending a conference at Keystone and want to get some climbing in.
By ScoRo
From: Portland, OR
Jan 30, 2003
Not sure why the description on the main page of this area didn't help you, but this area is found by getting off I-70 at silverthorne, taking 6 up to keystone and instead of taking the right hand turn into the free lot/River Run area (Gondola Way i think) you continue and take your next right. You'll know you missed the right because the next right is a-basin, hehe, I haven't actually climbed at the area but used to hike up there last winter while waiting for snow working at keystone. Find the turnout just up the road, and start hiking. Good luck.
By the doctor
May 1, 2006
There is some great rock to be had if you're in the area. Feel free to contact the staff at the Breckenridge Climbing Wall (970) 453-1734 if you want some local info. There are a few other areas in the county also worth checking out.
By Scott Miller
From: Denver, CO
May 29, 2006
Ratings are getting a bit inflated....