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Actual Parchments, The 
Banana Dance 
Carapace 
Dancing Fox 
Director of Humor Affairs 
Endangered Species 
Farmers Market 
Flying Dragon, The 
Gopherus Agassizi 
Knuckle Bones 
Lambada 
Largado 
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Waltz, The 

The Actual Parchments 

5.13a

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Consensus: 5.13a [details]
FA: Todd Perkins, 1995
Season: year round
Submitted By: Ben Schmitt on Nov 26, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Casey on Actual Parchments

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Description 

As with almost every other route on this wall, The Actual Parchments offers an incredibly fun challange over steep sandstone terrain with varied moves, and of course, lots of chances to fall off... This route starts with a sharp and difficult pocket-pulling boulder problem (V4 or 5) past 3 bolts to huge jugs that make this route reasonable.
I stick clipped the second bolt, which mabe a good idea due to the boulder behind you if you fall.
Rest a bit then do the final huge deadpoint to a crimp (redpoint crux V4) and enjoy easy jugs up and left to the top of Director of Humor Affairs. Fun outing on good rock.


Location 

On the left side of the Turtle Wall, this line follows the left two of the steepest routes to link up with Director of Humor Affairs (5.11a)


Protection 

Nice bolts, 7-9 depending on how many you clip. to chain anchors



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By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 25, 2013

As of 3/25/13, the second bolt is missing. It is still possible to do the route safely, just stick clip the 3rd. If you blow the opening moves, you won't hit the boulder behind you, and even if you do, it'll be just a tap. I blew the moves on one go and it was fine.