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West Face - Right Side
Routes Sorted
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Acrobat, The 
Angle Iron Traverse 
Coffin Nail 
Crimes of Passion 
Dos Equis 
Edge, The 
El Camino Real 
Fingergrip 
Fingertip Traverse 
Fingertrip 
Hangover, The 
Jensen's Jaunt 
Last Judgment 
On the Road 
Pearly Gate 
Pigs in Bondage 
Shit for Brains 
Slab, The 
Toe Tip 
Traitor Horn 
Unknown? 

The Acrobat 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob Gaines and Frank Bentwood, August 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 495
Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Jul 8, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Acrobat

Description 

This route climbs the arete and overhang left of Pearly Gate and to the right of The Hangover.

Start with the first two pitches of Traitor Horn, belaying just after the traverse that takes you to the base of the alcove.

Make an extended stem to clip a bolt on the left wall, then crank left around the corner up to another bolt and the crux: a big, height dependent move up and left (under 6 Ft. tall you'll probably need to dyno) then easy moves up to the big overhang and a third bolt. Drop down and right around the corner, then move up to a fourth bolt (a left knee-lock facilitates the clip!) and make a 5.10 face move past the roof, up onto an easy slab. There is a knob tie-off for pro here. Belay about 40 feet higher at a block with a mountain mahogany.


Protection 

4 bolts, gear to 3 inches.



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