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 ADVANCED
Arid Piles - Southwest Face
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Acid Crack, The 
Just Another New Wave Route 
Popeye 
Taming of the Shoe, The 

The Acid Crack 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: (TR) John Bachar, 1982, FL: J. Bachar, 1983
Page Views: 3,173
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Apr 17, 2007
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Colin Lantz leading Acid Crack 1985.

The Climb 

This not often done Josh testpiece climbs an overhanging thin fingers crack. This classic is located about halfway between Popeye on the right and Edge of Doom on the left, on the southeast end of Arid Piles. It sits atop the formation, so a bit of scrambling from the desert floor gets one to the base.


The Gear 

Many thin fingers and smaller



Photos of The Acid Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Tamara Hastie climbing Acid Crack in Joshua Tree National Park. <br /> <br /> Jeff Johnson <br /> <br /><a href='http://www.tamarahastie.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.tamarahastie.com</a> <br /><a href='http://blog.tamarahastie.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >blog.tamarahastie.com</a>
Tamara Hastie climbing Acid Crack in Joshua Tree N...
Alan Watts, 1985
Alan Watts, 1985
Al Diamond leading Acid Crack, early 1980's.
Al Diamond leading Acid Crack, early 1980's.
The Acid Crack
The Acid Crack
The Acid Crack
The Acid Crack
The Acid Crack, 5.12d
BETA PHOTO: The Acid Crack, 5.12d
Mike and I would do most of the climb a bit differently.  But we made both methods of beta work.
Mike and I would do most of the climb a bit differ...
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By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Oct 7, 2012

Not so much a comment as some historical musings...

I remember when Bachar did this thing and then we all saw it in all the mags and whatnot. At the time it was just another horrendous Bachar toprope done on some random weekend. A while later it started to get a pretty good rep as being really hard. Skip Guerin rolled in from Colorado, supposedly not really climbing for a while, but decided to give it a go, on top rope. Flashed the thing. Seemed really impressive at the time, and as time went forward, seemed even more impressive for the time and the era, and the condition he was in. A few years later Doug McDonald and myself decided it was time to tick this thing off. We set up the TR. I got virtually nowhere and Doug ended up getting one of the biggest gobies I had ever seen. The kind you can pour blood out of like a flesh lined shot glass. That was it for us. I don't think either of us have ever gone back and there is certainly no reason for me to visit that thing these days. The last guy I saw on the thing was Hidetaka Suzuki eons ago, and if I recall he finally led it into submission.

By Leavittator
Nov 2, 2012
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

This is one of the best routes at Joshua Tree. It has always been one of my favorites. On the coldest day of the year, you can still go here in the afternoon and be relatively warm.

By Alain Aleksandro De la Tejera
From: Riverside, Ca
Mar 8, 2014

This is such a spectacular line. The movement is not at all obvious and I had such a great time figuring out the beta with my climbing partner, Mike Zitt. There is hardly any information online about this climb which made it even more appealing. Once the movement was figured out it was not at all bad. Figuring it out was the tough part. I made a video below in case anyone does want to see it but if you are the type that wants the fun in figuring out the movements themselves then DON'T watch it. Otherwise, give it a go. It is truly amazing. :)