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Division Wall
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The Abyss 

YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Merril Bitter
Page Views: 2,055
Submitted By: Tyler Logan on Mar 16, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Working on "The Abyss" (1996)

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pumpy and powerful, with a distinct crux near the end. Contains nice pockets, but also some very slippery, polished edges.

Location 

Left end of the Division Wall

Protection 

bolts


Photos of The Abyss Slideshow Add Photo
Reed fighting for it. <br /> <br />Photo: Jason Eichorst
Reed fighting for it.

Photo: Jason Eichorst

Comments on The Abyss Add Comment
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By Cowboy Roy
From: SLC, UT
Jul 26, 2012

It would be nice if whoever stole my top draws on this would give them back, I left three on the bolts after deep end breaks off. the disappeared about a week ago and I only had them up for maybe 2 before.
By zoso
Jul 26, 2012

I think the word you were looking for wasn't "stole", but "cleaned". As you apparently abandoned them for 3 weeks, they were no longer yours.
By Ryan Stott
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 27, 2012
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Very fun route, with a bouldery finish.
By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Apr 19, 2013

I enjoyed this route. Stays with you, and the fun comes right before the anchors.
By Rob Phillips
Jun 13, 2014
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

After watching Merril Bitter run five consecutive laps on this, I started thinking maybe I could do at least one! After he did his second set of five laps, I was convinced. I hopped on, but I couldn't even make it to the chains! Haha! I watched him do five more laps (yes, he was now at 15 total) and I decided to give it another go. I did make it to the top this time with a few hangs, before Merril was back on and finished his last set of five, for a nice round 20 laps! It was seriously amazing to watch. Seemingly effortless precision and control. Thanks for the inspiration. I did go back a few weeks later and sent it! Just once though ;)
By bheller
From: SL UT
Jun 26, 2014
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Seems pretty absurd for someone to suggest this is a 12c. Easy climbing to a V5, to a poor shake, to a V6 finish. Hard at 12d.
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Jul 3, 2014
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

I banged my head against the division wall like 12 times in stubborn blindness trying to use the ticked crappy crimp/pinch out left to reach the jug over the roof to finish, whipping constantly at the same move. Luckily I discovered on my 13th go that the small slender female fingers of my left hand could fit in the top slider pocket normally used as a right hand cross through, a simple bump making Brad Heller's accurately described v6 problem into a casual v4.

Discovering this beta was like being spiritually reborn, allowing me to rise from the abyss. Fat fingered folk will likely be unable to use this apostolic blessing without tape and superglue. Finger tissue infarction takes hours. A send will only take minutes. Godspeed.

Clipping the single fixed anchor draw off the jugger slot without doing the final move is what your fairy godmother would do.
By Jeremy Noring
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Aug 26, 2014

A fun (and spicy!) finish: head to the lone set of chains up and to the right (iimediately to the left of the anchors of shallow beginnings), runout about fifteen feet or so. Probably adds a letter grade of hard slab, and comes with obligatory massive falls.