|Hidden Heavenly Slab
One of my personal favorites in the canyon.
P1. Start on the far right side beginning up steep roofy terrain. Find a fixed pin, above the pin a large cam gets things started about 15 feet up (easy), from the cam climb up passing 3 bolts to the roof. From here shuffle left and up and over roof using a very cool finger pocket. 5.10+
P2. From chain belay/rap climb up to the left of the small pine growing out of the roof. Once you gain the slab proper climb up nice features passing 2 bolts to a big ledge and common belay/rap w/ 6 Ways From Sunday.5.6
A few all gear variations have been climbed around this pitch all checking in around 5.6/5.7
P3. Use the same start as 6 Ways but after you clip the 2nd bolt climb straight up (instead of traversing on the ramp/crack) placing small TCU’s in horizontals. Aim for the black flake, once you get to the flake clip a bolt above it and make some fun moves to the belay. 5.8+
One of the best slab pitches up here
P4. From belay climb out and left into space. # .75 camalot gets things rolling, from there climb up steep features clipping numerous bolts. From the right facing corner climb up and left out of it onto an exposed slab. Make a "footless" traverse left onto the slab. Launch straight up into the shallow left facing corner and persevere to the chains. 5.11
P5. Climb up behind the big bush clipping a bolt and a pin or two. Steep moves with wild exposer are memorable. Short. 5.10+
On the far right side of the Hidden Heavenly Slab is a steep overhang. The 1st pitch starts up this. Rap route.
This is also the raps down for 6 ways From Sunday
(1) #4 camalot (2) #1 Metoilus and a rack to fill the in between. Slings nice. 60M rope
The beautiful 4th pitch. TP on the FFA
Photo by M...
Jul 25, 2009
Pitch 1 is pretty fun with lots of finesse. Pitch 3 is a fun slab. Pitch 4 is the goods, with unexpected rests and features you wouldn't expect to link up as well as they do. From start to finish, this pitch is pretty dang cool. I especially liked the exit moves. For some reason this one reminds me of a more sustained, 5.11 Refugees from Reality.
You might be able to use a #3 camalot on Pitch 5 between the first bolt and the piton to reduce some of the sketch. Don't blow the move to the second bolt or the easy finish mantle. This short pitch felt a lot more serious than the others but the moves were cool.
Aug 22, 2009
Pitch 4 is excellent...it's quite improbable, strenuous and thought provoking. Clay, I must have missed all of those "hidden" rests you were talking about!
|By Mark Shah|
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Really nice route. On the 5th pitch, there is a good spot for a 0.75 cam between the bolt and the piton. We did not find any need for a #4 camalot.