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5.8 Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.8 Crack by the Road, The T 
Arm and Hammer S 
Asbury Park S 
Blue Spotted Tail TR 
Blueballs at Christmas T 
Bolt And Run S 
Central Park TR 
Chimney of Doom T 
Granny's Route S 
License to Ill T 
Milksnake T 
Milktoast S 
Moe Pup Sensation S 
Only a Crow S 
Pump Up the Volume S 
Raven S 
Romancing The Snake T 
Romancing the Stone S 
Sky Pilot T,S 
Snake Skin Slab S 
Terrace, The S 

The 5.8 Crack by the Road 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 3,894
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (59)
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matt...

Note: New route moratorium area. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Yes, that's right. It's called the 5.8 Crack by the Road, but it is in fact 5.7. I can't explain it.

However this is a really fun climb. I think it's the most fun moderate route at this crag. Very few people bring trad gear to Rumney, so on a busy day I like to bring a small selection of gear, and I can get on all kinds of fun routes while the strict sporty folk stand in line for the classics.

What can I say? It's a crack. Follow it and have fun. Mostly hand sized crack with some face holds.

Location 

Just left of Romancing the Stone, there is a set of stairs. Go up the stairs and turn right, you are there.

Protection 

Bring a standard rack. Ring bolt anchor.


Photos of The 5.8 Crack by the Road Slideshow Add Photo
5.8 Crack by the Road (right), Bolt and Run (left)...
BETA PHOTO: 5.8 Crack by the Road (right), Bolt and Run (left)...
Dave on 5.8 crack
Dave on 5.8 crack
Erin on the "happy place" ledge before s...
Erin on the "happy place" ledge before s...
vanessa minery on the 5.8 crack by the road...
vanessa minery on the 5.8 crack by the road...
Erin in the middle of the route...
Erin in the middle of the route...
wide angle of the whole route...
wide angle of the whole route...
Issac on 5.8 Crack by the Road...
Issac on 5.8 Crack by the Road...
matt practicing gear craft
matt practicing gear craft

Comments on The 5.8 Crack by the Road Add Comment
Show which comments
By Pal Pocsi
From: Budapest, Hungary
Oct 18, 2009

Super fun route. I used three cams (#1-3 Camalots) but wish I had doubles of a couple of these. I ran out the end a little bit but that's the easy section.
By maineah
From: Maine
Jan 26, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Felt more like 5.6, but it's a really fun route. The crack offers perfect cam placements.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 16, 2010

Here lies the remains of the wasted link cam that has been hopelessly stuck on 5.8 crack by the road for too long...
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Aug 16, 2010

Lee,
Do you know exactly why the lobes on this thing are broken? Did you purposely break it to get it out, or did it break simply from you working on it to get it out? My initial reaction, especially given other Link-cam breakages, is 'Yikes'. I mean, I have spent some time pounding and pulling on booty TCUs and Camalots a lot smaller than this, and I never broke anything except a few trigger wires.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 16, 2010

haha, not to worry after working at it another day with a nut tool i came back with a sawzall and a beefy blade which was the cause of the broken lobes :)
By Harrison Harb
From: Portland, Or
Dec 5, 2011

This climb is great fun. If you're like me and don't have a trad rack, worry not. There are some old anchors like 20 feet above the ones for this climb which one can use to get down to it and then TR.
By Devin Krevetski
From: West Woodstock, VT
Jul 23, 2012

I swear this whole route could be protected with nothing but #2 camalots. I brought 2 with me and leap frogged both at least once each.
By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Apr 21, 2013

This was my third trad lead ever. Much thanks to the nice Quebecois dude who let me borrow a couple C4s so I could have doubles and be a wimp. I sewed it up. Awesome times.
By caesar.salad
From: southern Maine
Oct 14, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

first trad lead ever. dope shit. almost didn't bring my #4, glad I did. crux is about 1/3 of the way up, just getting over this weird bulge.