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The 5.10 Wall

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Hooters Arete 
Mr. Owl 
Open Project (Endless Owl's) 
Project Owl (open project) 
Wize Owl 
Woodland Surfer 

The 5.10 Wall 


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Elevation: 2,800'
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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: M Sprague on Oct 18, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: The 5.10 Wall

Description 

The centerpiece of the right cliff is the 120 foot tall shear 5.10 Wall, situated above the slabs, with a large wooded ledge between. The name is a misnomer since what appears to be a nice collection of 5.10 face climbs turns out to be a bunch of fiercely technical and sustained climbing that usually checks in at 5.12 or above. The joke on the new routers passed for many years into the tradition of sandbagging Owls route grades by a couple numbers. If you like techy steep face climbing, this is the wall for you. There are a couple open projects here, prob. hard 10 and hard 11 ;) , that when completed could be the best hard pitches of their kind in the region.

The main wall faces SSE, so gets blasted by morning and midday sun, making it a great destination for dry Fall days

In the middle of the face is a large flake that will probably be reduced if a climb ever goes up next to it. All the established climbs are to the left of this flake to Hooters Arete and the giant corner of Wize Owl. There is one quality route further left Dragonfly Yoga, approached by carefully scrambling across the death slab. The right side of the wall is bound by a huge loose and often wet gully and a big buttress. To each side of the gully is great potential, but it will require some dedicated trundling.


Getting There 

See the descriptions under the Owl's Cliff and Rightt Wall. From the toe of the Contact Wall, scramble towards the right up the big steep gully to get to a steep, tree covered ledge, with an expanse of slab below. The smooth vertical 120 foot tall wall above is the 5.10 Wall.


6 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',5],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For The 5.10 Wall
Looking up at Dave Quinn's  "Wise Owl" 12b. It follows the corners and flakes up and to the left side of the roof.

Wize Owl 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b  NH : Owl's Cliff (off Kancamagu... : ... : The 5.10 Wall
At the top of the approach gully, just around left of the main vertical face of the 5.10 Wall, is a large left facing corner, capped by a big 2 tiered roof. This route climbs the corner, making use of the flakes and horizontal seams to reach an anchor just left of the roof. Most of the climbing is 5.11, with one hard section that brings it up to 12b. It is well protected with bolts, so get on it! Stick clip the first bolt....[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

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