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Unsorted Routes:

The 44 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mayrose & Leitinger, 1965
Page Views: 569
Submitted By: david goldstein on Aug 23, 2005
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Description 

This is a different way to get to the Fat City chimney. Note that this route is one and a half pitches of 5.8 and that the second pitch ends with the FC crux which is 5.10. The regular FC start is superior. The first pitch of The 44 is a no star, but P2 has some nice climbing.

Start about 50 feet left of the regular FC start at a wide, bushy crack with bushy dogleg left at about 20'.

Grovel up the first 20' hitting a hard spot at about 15'. Walk the dogleg then continue up. About 30' after the dogleg there is a good spot to belay which needs 3" gear. Gillett indicates the belay is about 30' higher at an old, useless bolt with no stance; this looked like a poor place to belay. After the bolt there is a nice handcrack which deposits you at the base of the FC chimney. Proceed up FC.


Protection 

Fat City rack plus cams up to 3.5".



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By Mike Carnes
Apr 18, 2007

Just climbed this the other day and found that setting a belay just after the dog leg in the pod makes for a beautiful link up with the Fat City roof. I would almost say I like this approach better than the regular approach because it ends up being like 80 ft. of hands up to the bombay slot below the roof.

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Jun 4, 2011

Although this line doesn't look like much from the ground, it offers up some great 5.8 hand jam sections. The route has some great rock also, except for the bushy ledge traverse of course.

As other folks have said, don't belay at the bolt. There is an OK ledge about 25ft below it. (3-4" gear)

By Lew Strong
From: Loveland/Vail, CO
Jun 17, 2011

This is better than the first pitch of Fat City, but you miss out on the 10a finger crack at the start of FC P2. Fun to do if you have done FC several times.