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The 2013-2014 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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Apr 11, 2014
Mountain Bandito
Nice firm travel in the AM. Deborah climbed good, this next storm cycle could make it in better shape. Lots of shedding on solar aspects, especially McHenry's Peak.

Unknown climbers on West Gulley.

West Gully and McHenry's Peak.
West Gully and McHenry's Peak.
Taylor-B.
From CO & AK
Joined Oct 20, 2009
2,624 points
Apr 12, 2014
Hero ice at Pumphouse in Vail if you want a quick few laps…should be good for a while. Shameless Shaemus
From Cottonwood Heights, UT
Joined Jun 3, 2009
78 points
Apr 12, 2014
anyone know if Lincoln is in yet? Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,499 points
Apr 13, 2014
Lamb's Slide
Yesterday a friend and I decided to head back back to Lyons from the Park via Hwy 7 (due to the road construction on 36). On a lark we decided to check out Hidden Falls on the way home, and I was a bit surprised that it was still climbable. Definitely the warmest day I've ever climbed on ice (must have been mid-50s)!
Hidden Falls, 12 Apr 2014.
Hidden Falls, 12 Apr 2014.
Rocky_Mtn_High
From Arvada, CO
Joined Apr 14, 2010
195 points
Apr 14, 2014
Nick Venechuk wrote:
More of a ski question, but has anyone taken a look at Dragontail or Dead Elk lately? Is there ice at the top or is it snow all the way? Looking to possibly head up this weekend.


No ice at top in left fork dragpntail butt very hard pack. I skied from the top this Saturday. Did botttom of dead elk in much nicer conditions when it had softened in early afternoon.
GLD
Joined Jan 19, 2012
97 points
Apr 14, 2014
Thanks GLD, I did Dragontail on Saturday too, probably saw you out there.

Anyone else who's looking at it, coverage is great from the top to the lake, I heard from some guys who did both that Dead Elk is in all the way to the top as well. Saturday was pretty hard as it wasn't very sunny but there's a good bootpack.
Nick Venechuk
From Golden, CO
Joined Sep 23, 2008
63 points
Apr 14, 2014
After a day of ice climbing
Anyone know how ames ice hose is looking? First pitch? Jeremy Joseph
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Joined May 31, 2011
451 points
Apr 15, 2014
I did dead elk on friday 4-11 and it wasn't totally covered. The usual rock step is dry leaving you with a short downclimb or rappel. The next 100 feet had some rock dodging but then cruiser awesomeness on the lower half and apron. Freddy.Mondale
From Boulder, CO
Joined Apr 29, 2011
58 points
Apr 16, 2014
Mountain Bandito
10 Mile Canyon has been in good conditions for long moderate routes and skimo. Many of the couloirs and climbs have slid out creating good neve snow and travel.

Sneaky One, one of the best ski lines in the Ten M...
Sneaky One, one of the best ski lines in the Ten Mile Range;)


Toni's Nightmare with some big avalanche debris pi...
Toni's Nightmare with some big avalanche debris piles.


Obscure smears from melt freeze cycles!
Obscure smears from melt freeze cycles!
Taylor-B.
From CO & AK
Joined Oct 20, 2009
2,624 points
Apr 17, 2014
Mountain Bandito
Buff Johnson wrote:
anyone know if Lincoln is in yet?

Take care on the approach, there are a lot of crevasses as of lately.

Base of Lincoln Falls.
Base of Lincoln Falls.


Any one been up Kieners recently? Seriously:)
Taylor-B.
From CO & AK
Joined Oct 20, 2009
2,624 points
Apr 21, 2014
Vail
Took a ski tour into GG on Sunday, 4/20, to see what was/might be soon/is in to climb and found a whole lot of sun-baked ice with wet slide activity signs all over. Good ski tour though.

All Mixed Up:
AMU.
AMU.


West Gully & Stoneman
West Gully & Stoneman.
West Gully & Stoneman.


McHenry's, West Gully, and Stoneman:
McHenry's.
McHenry's.
Chris Snobeck
From Denver, CO
Joined Jun 3, 2011
45 points
Apr 22, 2014
2nd pitch of Womb.
anyone got eyes on hallet chimney? michael voth
From Ft. Collins, CO
Joined Feb 23, 2012
18 points
Apr 23, 2014
Taylor-B. wrote:
Take care on the approach [to lincoln falls], there are a lot of crevasses as of lately.


Looks like Lincoln is finally in

I need 10 partners for standard ranier technique.
And, ladders I need some ladders
Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,499 points
Apr 23, 2014
Has anyone been up to the Vanquished Buttress recently? Is there any ice up there? Thanks. Ben Coryell
Joined Jun 15, 2009
6 points
Apr 23, 2014
2nd pitch of Womb.
not vanquished but did womb with a view to below the crux pitch a couple weeks ago. no ice but its dripping up there. it may be worth checking out. michael voth
From Ft. Collins, CO
Joined Feb 23, 2012
18 points
Apr 23, 2014
Took this back on the 18th.
Took this back on the 18th.
Ben Coryell
Joined Jun 15, 2009
6 points
Apr 23, 2014
2nd pitch of Womb.
thanks ben, let us know if you find any ice up past the loch. first 3 pitches of womb were still fun.
2nd pitch of Womb.
2nd pitch of Womb.
michael voth
From Ft. Collins, CO
Joined Feb 23, 2012
18 points
Apr 23, 2014
has anyone been up dreamweaver? ...just wondering if theres any ice yet... A.P.Lee
From Boulder, CO
Joined Dec 11, 2012
21 points
Apr 25, 2014
Catskills Ice fest
Also interested in checking out dreamweaver in the next week - has anyone seen the condition of the Couloir? B.James
From Boulder, CO
Joined Apr 6, 2011
219 points
Apr 25, 2014
Any idea what condition Martha is in these days? Seems late but its been a good snow year. MyFeetHurt
From Thornton, CO
Joined Oct 31, 2011
25 points
Apr 26, 2014
Went up today - might get to pics later.

Basically, crux last step is 15 ft of good ice. The first half of it is stem-able so it's really only a couple mandatory moves on ice and several optional ice moves throughout the couloir. Otherwise, cruiser snow and a few snowy/thin ice rock steps. Looks like the weather's turning though.

Edit - climbers were on Dreamweaver, Lamb's, Flying Dutchman, and another pair were attempting Kiener's that I saw. Looked like they all cruised (not sure about Kiener's pair), but maybe they'll post something.

MyFeetHurt wrote:
Any idea what condition Martha is in these days? Seems late but its been a good snow year.
Ryan Marsters
Joined Jan 21, 2011
119 points
Apr 26, 2014
Lost Cities 5.12a,Black Canyon,CO
Dutchman is skiing nice as of April 18
ice is really short due to deep snow this year

Below the ice crux.
Below the ice crux.




Approaching the ice.
Approaching the ice.
justin dubois
From Estes Park
Joined Jan 2, 2001
625 points
Apr 27, 2014
Lamb's Slide
No ice on Dreamweaver yet, but currently it is a superb snow climb with a series of mixed (snow/rock) steps.

Dreamweaver 26 Apr 2014.
Dreamweaver 26 Apr 2014.


And here's a photo of Martha (from the base of the Loft Couloir):

Martha 26 Apr 2014.
Martha 26 Apr 2014.


(I posted these on the Snow Climbing thread and reposted here, since folks were asking . . .)
Rocky_Mtn_High
From Arvada, CO
Joined Apr 14, 2010
195 points
Apr 28, 2014
Flakes of Wrath
Ryan Marsters wrote:
...another pair were attempting Kiener's that I saw. Looked like they all cruised (not sure about Kiener's pair), but maybe they'll post something.




Well I wouldn't call it cruising, more like floundering. But we finished (Kieners). Snow in the Lamb Slide was decent, could be a bit firmer. Snow on Broadway was pretty variable, a little sugary for my comfort in some areas. Notch couloir seemed pretty well consolidated.
Paul-B
Joined Mar 26, 2011
115 points
Apr 28, 2014
James at the start of Stairway to Heaven near Silv...
I know this is a bit off the beaten path but anybody happen to know how conditions are on Fluted Peak, Skin Flute Couloir (laugh all you want I didn't name it)...ha ha ha James Faerber
Joined Sep 15, 2010
31 points


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