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The 2013-2014 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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Jan 28, 2014
LIV wrote:
I agree ... Slacking here. Doing Park stuff. New job and need a long weekend for this one. Still on the do list and will post it up!



Oh, I think I know where that is... San Juan's near the shelf road, across the valley??
Just Solo
From Colorado Springs
Joined Nov 13, 2003
23 points
Feb 1, 2014
Any updates on whether "The Fang" has healed itself or not yet? Any recent ascents? BillyGoatSam
From Colorado Springs
Joined Jan 21, 2012
0 points
Feb 3, 2014
BillyGoatSam wrote:
Any updates on whether "The Fang" has healed itself or not yet? Any recent ascents?


Word is that it has not healed and has developed yet another crack midway up.
Jason Maki
Joined Mar 19, 2012
104 points
Feb 3, 2014
Laps in Ouray
It still looks like the fracture at the top has not filled in (as of yesterday). I'd be real careful on it with the cold temps we are getting. Jonathan White
From littleton, co
Joined Aug 22, 2005
113 points
Administrator
Feb 3, 2014
From Armin, 4 days ago:

Sooooo, here ya go folks a ice report! Yesterday afternoon, we did The Ribbon which was fun, avi-safe, no spindrift whatsoever, and lots-o-hooks. This morning we did Bridalveil which was fun and hooked as well. Bridalveil was totally dry and had nice v-threads in situ. We had so much fun on Bridalveil that we didn't want the fun to end, so we cruised on over to the Ames Ice Hose and enjoyed a FAT but typical enduro Ames Ice Hose. Ames had frequent hooks and a fat first pitch, and the last pitch really delivered a good pump after the days festivities!! Cheers!
Leo Paik
From Westminster, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,170 points
Feb 3, 2014
Loft route on Mt. Meeker
Climbed at Moffatt Tunnel yesterday morning. The main flow is good, but the pillar is really beat up and getting thin.

Just a heads up, the pillar has a pretty sizable crack on the back side near the top. Be careful!
Michael Rickers
From Westminster, CO
Joined Feb 11, 2011
20 points
Feb 3, 2014
Backflip, Lumpy Ridge
Sounds like the fang is no more. Will Mayo knocked er down trying to finish super fortress

redbull.com/us/en/adventure/st...
John Klooster
From Arvada, CO
Joined Dec 12, 2004
21 points
Feb 4, 2014
John Klooster wrote:
Sounds like the fang is no more. Will Mayo knocked er down trying to finish super fortress redbull.com/us/en/adventure/st...


I have to say, I'm a little confused by these pictures. Shouldn't the Designator be in the pic in the background? I've never had that vantage point on the fang (photographers) but that doesn't look quite right?? Am I missing something?
Just Solo
From Colorado Springs
Joined Nov 13, 2003
23 points
Feb 4, 2014
Ok, seems these pics were earlier in the season... The Designator is not yet formed, take a look at this one...

mountainproject.com/v/10857510...
Just Solo
From Colorado Springs
Joined Nov 13, 2003
23 points
Feb 4, 2014
JR Token
I was there the day Will knocked the Fang down. Definitely early season. I only heard it come crashing down that day. I was wondering when this media would hit the wires...

Here is a picture of him sending to set up the camera rig.

Send it!
Send it!


Jonathan
419
From Denver
Joined May 26, 2010
705 points
Feb 4, 2014
BillyGoatSam wrote:
Any updates on whether "The Fang" has healed itself or not yet? Any recent ascents?


Rumors about the Fang's demise are greatly exaggerated! Jon Gustafson and I climbed it yesterday (Sunday, Feb 3) and it was as fat as I've ever seen it. It looks to me like there is a healed crack where the cauliflower meets the pillar, and another healed crack where the pillar comes off the rock near the top. It has been getting quite a lot of traffic, and seems as safe as it's ever going to be.
tom bohanon
Joined Jan 24, 2006
26 points
Feb 5, 2014
Goofin' on the Grand after soloing the Upper Exum ...
A bit belated but below is a look at Avocado Gully on Jan. 30. The warm, dry weather wreaked havoc on it, and I would assume on some of the other Redstone stuff that relies on snowmelt. Hopefully the snowfall in recent days will help it out. It's still in very climbable shape but it is quite airy and thin with a lot of hooking. Enjoy!

Avocado Gully on Jan. 30, 2014.
Avocado Gully on Jan. 30, 2014.
Michael Schneiter
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Joined Apr 3, 2002
7,375 points
Feb 6, 2014
another day in RMNP
Anybody been up to Jaws recently? Nodin deSaillan
From Boulder
Joined Mar 11, 2013
85 points
Feb 10, 2014
Outdid myself here
Hurry! Hurry! Clear Creek Canyon ice is in fat! I soloed Beer Garden, Coors Lite and Mickey's Big Mouth this weekend. All were in prime conditions. And while not the most challenging ice climbs, I felt really fortunate to be ice climbing 15 minutes from my house in a t shirt. CCC ice has been a fickle thing to tick off of my Colorado Bucket lost, but it was definitely worth the wait.

Highly recommended is the second pitch, "Exit Crack" variation to Coors Light. It was in fat ice conditions with a difficulty of WI3 M3-. And while it does turn into a bit of a slog, I was able to climb the drainage all the way up to the canyon rim.
The Blueprint Part Dank
From FEMA Region VIII
Joined Jun 21, 2013
248 points
Feb 10, 2014
black nasty
Sunday Silk..

Silk.
Silk.

Silky.
Silky.
Cor
Joined Mar 6, 2006
1,175 points
Feb 10, 2014
RCC@50+ Photo courtesy CO Crack Gear
The Fang looks healed all right, climb at yer own risk...

Did Resurrection Saturday, mank, tat and choss all in one epic pitch!
RobCC on Resurrection.  Photo: Janette Heung.
RobCC on Resurrection.

Photo: Janette Heung.
RobC2
Joined Mar 9, 2009
198 points
Feb 10, 2014
Bocan
Nice Cor!! hahah all a couloir climb now? Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
927 points
Feb 10, 2014
black nasty
Despite the ultra snowy, and ominous fog…
It was in the usual shape of a bit of everything (rock,snow,ice,mixed)
No matter what, it's going to be spicy - don't fall - somewhere along the way. Like usual.

Good fun though, and no wind! We didn't start climbing until 12:20 or so.
It was good cold temps that day, so the ice was not so drippy.
And yes, I did place screws!
Cor
Joined Mar 6, 2006
1,175 points
Feb 10, 2014
Center Direct, V10. Bishop, Ca.
Hard COR! Alton R.
From Boulder, Co
Joined Jan 28, 2010
154 points
Feb 11, 2014
Jones Pk
Here's what the Fang looked like last weekend (2-9-2014). The crack picture is taken from the top of The Thang.

If anybody found a pair of black mitts (Marmot?) up there, my partner would love to have them back.


The back of the Fang (2-9-2014).
The back of the Fang (2-9-2014).


The Fang on 2-9-14.
The Fang on 2-9-14.
George Barnes
From Westminster, CO
Joined Mar 9, 2008
163 points
Feb 11, 2014
Does anyone have information on conditions for Rifle? Paul Richer
From Salt Lake City
Joined Jun 26, 2012
0 points
Feb 11, 2014
801.
Climbed Rifle 2 weeks ago and it was about as good as it gets, including the dirt top-outs. Rob Griz
From Frisco
Joined Feb 3, 2008
1,444 points
Feb 11, 2014
Indian Creek Climbing
Ice in rifle is still good, but we got rained on heavily on Sunday. Dirt, sticks, and rocky topouts in Rifle, gotta love them

Rob Griz wrote:
Climbed Rifle 2 weeks ago and it was about as good as it gets, including the dirt top-outs.
coop
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Joined Jan 25, 2005
545 points
Feb 11, 2014
The transfer to ice...in this case a horizontal, w...
Fang was fat and hacked. WI4+ condition? There is a good fracture line at the top that acts as a good foothold. Actually though, It's healed a little in the past week and a half. Seemed safe. Use your own judgement.

Photo by Jason Kaplan
Ze Fang.
Ze Fang.
Noah8000
From Vail, CO
Joined Jul 15, 2010
979 points
Feb 11, 2014
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt K...
Noah8000 wrote:
Fang was fat and hacked. WI4+ condition? There is a good fracture line at the top that acts as a good foothold. Actually though, It's healed a little in the past week and a half. Seemed safe. Use your own judgement. Photo by Jason Kaplan


Thanks Noah. Did you get a chance to get on the Dez? Is that also hacked out?
Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Joined Sep 26, 2009
2,578 points


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