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The 2013-2014 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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By Jeremy Joseph
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Dec 28, 2013
After a day of ice climbing
Have a pair of Mountain Hardwear Bazuka gloves in a size small for sale. Got them for very cheap at a sale, and they are a bit to small. Only used them 4 or 5 times. Asking 90 bucks for em. Let me know if your interested!!!

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By Ali Jaffri
From Westminster, CO
Dec 28, 2013
At the village in Hunza Valley, Karakoram, Pakista...
Does anyone know if the Upper and Lower Falls in Big Thompson Canyon are in?

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By Jonathan White
From littleton, co
Dec 28, 2013
Laps in Ouray
RD is in, a bit chandeliered below 3/4.
Ridged Designator.
Ridged Designator.


Fang looks interesting
Fang.
Fang.

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By sanjuanmtnguide
Dec 29, 2013
Personal Photo
Freshly updated Ouray, Silverton, and Telluride Ice Conditions here:

Ouray, Silverton, Telluride Ice Conditions

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By LawHous
From Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 29, 2013
Post climb celebration drinks with a sweet line in...
Anybody know what Longs/Meeker cirque looks like? Specifically Alexander's and Datk Star

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By Nodin deSaillan
From Boulder
Dec 29, 2013
another day in RMNP
LawHous wrote:
Anybody know what Longs/Meeker cirque looks like? Specifically Alexander's and Datk Star


I was on Alexander's last Saturday. It was still pretty good but thinning out. The chockstone pitch was mostly dry but had good hooks. I did Dreamweaver yesterday, and while descending via the loft, I could see that darkstar was in a similar state as dreamweaver: dry.

I am hoping to check out Field's this coming weekend, if anyone has been up there recently...

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By Sean in Oxford
From Oxford, Ohio
Jan 2, 2014
Does anyone have a report for Hoosier Pass?

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By Kevin Craig
Jan 2, 2014
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Sean in Oxford wrote:
Does anyone have a report for Hoosier Pass?


If you mean Lincoln Falls, it's fatter than it's been in 20 years.

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By RobC2
Jan 3, 2014
This..
Will Mayo on his new. m13 at Vail, Stratofortress. when he made the ice he hadn't brought any screws but topped out anyway...
Stratofortress.  Photo by Rob Cordery-Cotter, Will...
Stratofortress.

Photo by Rob Cordery-Cotter, Will Mayo climbing.

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By dcohn
Jan 3, 2014
Is Hully Gully in?

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By Jeff Shafer
From Highlands Ranch, CO
Jan 3, 2014
dcohn wrote:
Is Hully Gully in?

See pics on pg 9 from about a month ago.

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By Philip Magistro
Jan 4, 2014
Climbed All Mixed Up on Thursday. Fat ice, took 12 and 16cm screws everywhere. No rock pro needed until the last anchor. The snow seemed solid, we weren't too concerned about the snowfields below the fourth pitch or at the top sliding, though we crossed on belay.


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By phil wortmann
From Colorado Springs, Co.
Jan 4, 2014
Shredded by the Center Route.
Ramona Falls is in but thin.  Hully Gully is fat. ...
Ramona Falls is in but thin.
Hully Gully is fat.
Great year for Colorado Springs ice.

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By Alton R.
From Boulder, Co
Jan 4, 2014
Center Direct, V10. Bishop, Ca.
HardCor on the main column at Moffatt Tunnel.
HardCor on the main column at Moffatt Tunnel.


Got out to Moffatt Tunnel this afternoon. Main flow on the North facing wall is coming in nicely but it was getting a bit damp towards the end of the day. The big column on the left is still a chandelier but it took Cor's screws. Good day!

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By Buck
Jan 5, 2014
Logging a little air time in the Platte.
Anyone been to wolfcreek recently? I'm planing on taking the wife down to the chain station or there abouts in a few days and any new beta would be appreciate. Thanks

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By jspitzer
Jan 5, 2014
Just spent the last 4 days ice climbing in SW Colorado. Overall routes are in excellent condition. Here is a brief break down of conditions on routes we climbed

Skylight Area: (1/2/14) Lots of ice on all routes with conditions being very favorable for sending. Climbed the Skylight and the 2nd pitch crux had good quality ice and plenty of hooks and steps. There is a V-thread in the lower 1/3 of the chimney pitch.

Stairway to Heaven: (1/3/14) Very fat conditions with many variations. The 3rd pitch was pretty wet in the middle. Many V-threads along the route. Very crowded on Friday when we climbed it.

No Thoroughfare Falls: (1/4/14). Very fat ice on this waterfall. Super cool location and very scenic. Fixed bolted anchors ~70ft up and another set above the pillar apron 70ft up from the previous anchors. Ideal to lead in 1 pitch that would be about 140ft. Chains at the top to rap off. No rock gear needed.


J. Spitzer leading the 3rd pitch of Stairway to He...
J. Spitzer leading the 3rd pitch of Stairway to Heaven.


Overview of Stairway to Heaven.
Overview of Stairway to Heaven.




No Thoroughfare Falls.
No Thoroughfare Falls.

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By Timmy Foulkes
Jan 6, 2014
climbing at EA
Buck wrote:
Anyone been to wolfcreek recently? I'm planing on taking the wife down to the chain station or there abouts in a few days and any new beta would be appreciate. Thanks


Ice on Wolf Creek pass is looking OK. Treasure is in and is very steep, and thin at the top. A couple of other climbs are touching down further up the pass but overall not the best ice conditions for Wolf Creek Pass in recent years

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By Joshua Payne
From Los Alamos, NM
Jan 6, 2014
Buck wrote:
Anyone been to wolfcreek recently? I'm planing on taking the wife down to the chain station or there abouts in a few days and any new beta would be appreciate. Thanks


Chainstation is in but not great. We ended up going to Big Meadows about 2 weeks ago. Things there were in good shape, short approach but snowshoes required.

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By Eric and Lucie
From Boulder, CO
Jan 6, 2014
Curious about the Fang... anyone been close to it?
Does it looks climbable?
Did it make it through the cold snap without... snapping?
Is the cable in place inside of it?
Looks good on the picture but I don't see signs of traffic. Wondering why.

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By Noah8000
From Vail, CO
Jan 6, 2014
The transfer to ice...in this case a horizontal, w...
Eric and Lucie wrote:
Curious about the Fang... anyone been close to it? Does it looks climbable? Did it make it through the cold snap without... snapping? Is the cable in place inside of it? Looks good on the picture but I don't see signs of traffic. Wondering why.


Think it's only been lead twice. Some fracture lines. It moved on Will while climbing near the top. (gunshot sound). The way it formed with the cable, it seems to be leaning not in a stable way. Should fill in hopefully.

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By Paul Gagner
Jan 7, 2014
Was up there yesterday and it was creaking and cracking - has a bit of a lean. Big curtain to the left of RD broke off mid-afternoon and almost killed two guys hanging in the cave left of RD. Big blocks.....

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By LawHous
From Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 7, 2014
Post climb celebration drinks with a sweet line in...
Any chance of Alexander's being in better shape than a few weeks ago? I figure with all the warm temps followed by cold temps it may have filled in some of the thinner spots. Any info or beta on the current route conditions would be great. Thanks

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By Tom-onator
From This Galaxy
Jan 7, 2014
Tom-onator
Had the ice all to my lonesome yesterday.
Silver Cascade Selfie 1-6-14
Silver Cascade Selfie 1-6-14

It was 15 degrees at the parking lot by noon.

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By Kirk Miller
From Golden, CO
Jan 7, 2014
Bugaboos, 1978 Photo by Ken Trout
Paul Gagner wrote:
Was up there yesterday and it was creaking and cracking - has a bit of a lean. Big curtain to the left of RD broke off mid-afternoon and almost killed two guys hanging in the cave left of RD. Big blocks.....


Yow!!! That's one helluva escape!!! Those blocks are fuckin' huge! One landed square on the "safe zone" cave belay area on the left side of the Desi.

Must've been a close scrape for sure.

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By doligo
Jan 7, 2014
Jose Cuervo Fruitcups dirtbag style
Tom-o Sapien wrote:
Had the ice all to my lonesome yesterday. It was 15 degrees at the parking lot by noon.


Looks like everyone was out skiing!

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