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The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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Dec 12, 2012
Indian Creek Climbing
I don't think anything is climbable yet. We finally got snow and cold temps to make some ice.

A.P.Lee wrote:
Does anyone what, if anything, is in in the Redstone/Marble area?
coop
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Joined Jan 25, 2005
545 points
Dec 12, 2012
Lamb's Slide
Mark Hammond wrote:
Just passing this on, I wasn't there. From a buddy who went to Hidden Falls in RMNP on Sunday the 9th. "it was a complete zoo. About 20 climbers were there, sketchfest. The ice is really poor, chandeliered and wet and very limited."


I was there on Sunday, and though 20 climbers is an exaggeration, a dozen or so is not. Most folks got on after an hour or two, but I agree with Scott, it's generally not worth it on weekends. Personally, I'm not sure it's really worth it at all right now, given how kicked out it is, and essentially only a single line, with water running visibly under the surface in the center, and a thin upper pillar that won't take much abuse.

I just called the RMNP Rangers office and was told they are meeting right now to discuss opening Bear Lake Road. Thankfully, it sounds as if it will be reopening shortly, possibly today. I was told there is about 7" of snow up there.
Rocky_Mtn_High
From Arvada, CO
Joined Apr 14, 2010
195 points
Dec 12, 2012
Bocan
Rocky_Mtn_High wrote:
I just called the RMNP Rangers office and was told they are meeting right now to discuss opening Bear Lake Road. Thankfully, it sounds as if it will be reopening shortly, possibly today. I was told there is about 7" of snow up there.


Speaking of rangers and Hidden Falls, what would we have to do to get that death tree removed at the top of the falls? It's worse than ever.
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
927 points
Dec 12, 2012
Flakes of Wrath
Anybody know if that North Central Couloir on Sneffels is still in (posted back on Oct 30th)? I would assume it is, since things are starting to form up in Ouray.

Assuming they don't get anymore snow I would like to head down and do it early next week. Anyone interested in coming?
Paul-B
Joined Mar 26, 2011
115 points
Dec 12, 2012
The San Juans have gotten about a foot of snow in the last several days. More is forecast for Thurs night/Fri. A consideration, I would think, in looking at Sneffels as an ice climb. Roger from Ouray
Joined Jul 31, 2007
23 points
Dec 12, 2012
Chomp. Summer climbing in RMNP.
Scott McMahon wrote:
Speaking of rangers and Hidden Falls, what would we have to do to get that death tree removed at the top of the falls? It's worse than ever.


What would I use for my TR anchor if that thing is taken out? :)
Brandon Groza
From Bend, OR
Joined Jan 15, 2011
152 points
Dec 12, 2012
Beagle
Paul-B wrote:
Anybody know if that North Central Couloir on Sneffels is still in (posted back on Oct 30th)? I would assume it is, since things are starting to form up in Ouray. Assuming they don't get anymore snow I would like to head down and do it early next week. Anyone interested in coming?

Some friends climbed that a week or so ago and encountered mostly powder snow, with about a 20' section of ice up high. Since then I'd guess we've received about 2' of snow up there.
Bryan Gilmore
From Your Mama
Joined Nov 7, 2005
1,064 points
Dec 12, 2012
Flakes of Wrath
Beagle wrote:
Some friends climbed that a week or so ago and encountered mostly powder snow, with about a 20' section of ice up high. Since then I'd guess we've received about 2' of snow up there.



Thanks. Sounds like I waited to long.
Paul-B
Joined Mar 26, 2011
115 points
Dec 12, 2012
Bocan
Brandon Groza wrote:
What would I use for my TR anchor if that thing is taken out? :)


haha brother if you are using this tree...But really it's only so long before the ground below goes, even though it's still alive. This is two weeks ago. Not sure how getting something like this looked at by the rangers would work.


Hidden Falls death tree.
Hidden Falls death tree.
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
927 points
Dec 12, 2012
Lake City Ice Park Conditions as of 12/9/12
Lake City Ice Park Conditions as of 12/9/12
Jayson
Joined Jul 2, 2012
10 points
Dec 12, 2012
Climbing at Josh
Campground couloir is in but soggy. Sundance looked in, but kind if sun baked and dirty. Steve Larson
From Glendale, CA
Joined Oct 21, 2009
5 points
Dec 13, 2012
5.6+
Tony's Nightmare, 12/07/2012.
Tony's Nightmare, 12/07/2012.
Rick McL
From Arvada CO
Joined Feb 24, 2009
39 points
Dec 13, 2012
Anyone have recent beta on Total Abandon? Or any info about the toll road, for that matter? Dylan Evans
From Boulder, Colorado
Joined Apr 18, 2012
21 points
Dec 15, 2012
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt K...
Bump for beta on officer's gulch OR flying Dutchman in RMNP. Thanks! Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Joined Sep 26, 2009
2,618 points
Dec 15, 2012
Thats Me
anything in S. CO? Ouray? Redstone? Silverton? clay meier
Joined Dec 24, 2008
359 points
Dec 16, 2012
Lamb's Slide
clay meier wrote:
anything in S. CO? Ouray? Redstone? Silverton?

I was planning to head to Ouray/Silverton tomorrow, but most climbs seem to be thin, if in at all, and the recent snow has caused dicey avy conditions in Eureka.
mtnguide.net/resources/ouray-i...

Closer to home: headed up to Black Lake today. The West Gulley was a bitch to get to, and it snowed all day, but avy danger was still low IMHO and the ice is in nicely (ditto for the Slabs).

West Gully.
West Gully.


Black Lake Slabs.
Black Lake Slabs.
Rocky_Mtn_High
From Arvada, CO
Joined Apr 14, 2010
195 points
Dec 16, 2012
hiking 8-5-09 (Don't chase the rabbit!!!)
FFS people! Leave hidden alone before you kill it, FOR EVERYONE! Just because some jackass posted a picture of an anemic, barely climable piece of ice, does not mean that it is in. O wait, no, nevermind, go ahead and knock it down. Them the gumbies can leave to destroy some other piece of ice, and maybe we mixed climbers can have a SAFE quiet time climbing in wild basin. Go to lincoln falls or something. Phoenix
From louisville, colorado
Joined Jul 23, 2008
315 points
Dec 16, 2012
Flakey Pull Roof v5
+1 ^^^
A lot of stuff in Vail is barely in (esp. spiral staircase.) Please stick to the fatter stuff and wait to climb the "barely in" stuff.
Officers Gulch is getting quite a bit of snow right now, I would wait until a few days after this storm system and reassess. Those gulleys will be sluffing for at least a few days.
logan johnson
From West Copper, Co
Joined Mar 1, 2006
332 points
Dec 16, 2012
Biker Fun
AMU was good Sat 15th, we were alone all day. Crossing mills lake was sketch, we tested as we walked and unbuckled our pack waist belt. Ross
From Pinewood Springs
Joined Jul 3, 2001
1,538 points
Dec 16, 2012
Bocan
Took a peep at silver plume today, not too much happening. Bring on the snow! Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
927 points
Dec 16, 2012
Thats Me
rockey mt high, that link is super awesome! thanks clay meier
Joined Dec 24, 2008
359 points
Dec 17, 2012
Standin' on top of the world.  NEWS, WA Pass.
Climbed Esperanza, just west of Silver Plume, on Sunday morning. Ice was a little wet, but fairly fat and plastic. 2 fun and easy pitches - possible to contrive variations up to WI-3/M-easy.

Also climbed something in the Officer's Gulch area. Parked, walked east along the bike path for a few minutes, then followed a boot pack into the woods at a small cairn/gas pipeline warning sign. Walked uphill for 20 minutes or so then descended into a gulley. Climbed this for 1500' past numerous steps of varying quality, length and difficulty - nothing harder than WI-3 - punctuated by periods of intense slogging though 6" of powder on ankle-breaking talus (not amazing)

Anyone know what this is?

Also triggered a small side - 2' crown, 20' across - while trying to exit the obviously wind-loaded gulley just below tree line. Fortunately it didn't have far to propagate. After cleaning my drawers, I escaped the gulley to the west and descended a wooded rib. Someone had been that way previously, possibly on Saturday, and had also trigger a small slide in the next gulley to the west.

Be careful out there!
eric kramak
From Denver, Colorado
Joined May 20, 2011
46 points
Dec 17, 2012
You can love your rope but you can't "LOVE&qu...
I think it would be very wise to stay out of Officer's Gulch for a while. From the area description:

Tenmile Canyon is along the interstate just west of Dillon. This area has lots of nice easy to moderate ice climbs with casual approaches. The downside is that most routes are the bottoms of avalanche chutes, so it is only sane to climb here early in the season before heavy snow falls. Preview conditions carefully before jumping on anything here.

Emphasis is mine.

I disagree with Ross above about Mills Lake. We crossed it on Sunday Dec. 16th and the ice was about 14 inches thick. You could have driven a hum-vee across.
Lee Smith
Joined Sep 5, 2003
1,686 points
Dec 19, 2012
Yellow Spur
Rigid Designator.
Rigid Designator.


Hadn't seen a Vail Posting in a while. Here is the latest as of Sunday 16th.

Desi - Wet but "In". Should be good to go by this weekend
Spiral - Thin, wet and "In". Not as typically fat as it usually is at this time.
Belfry- Out, didn't look to be lead-able from my glance at the top of sprial. However, I am sure someone would be willing to lead them.
Fang - Out and waterfall conditions
Pumphouse - In
Mixed Routes- Thin, chossy, pumpy and also "In"
CanDillo
From The Great State -Colorado
Joined Oct 28, 2009
91 points
Dec 19, 2012
With friends like this, who needs climbing?
Anybody been on Martha? Scrolled through the thread but didn't see anything. Judging by Rocky_Mtn_High's photos I'm keeping my fingers crossed... Shadrock
From Athens, GA
Joined Jun 25, 2009
53 points


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