By Steve Larson
From Glendale, CA
Dec 11, 2012
| Fat City is in, but fairly chandeliered. Second Gully is in, but bring stubbies. WHH looks in, but it's hard to tell from the road what's going on in the chimney. Stairway is in except the first pitch, which looks questionable. We ran into a party that did it Monday, so it's doable, but no idea about how P1 goes (If you were part of said party, please message me with some beta on P1). Yet Another Iced Up Chimney is in, though it's pretty narrow at the top of the chimney. It got climbed today by another party. The road is still drivable to all climbs, though you will definitely need 4wd. | 
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By Mark Hammond
From Eldorado Springs, CO
Dec 12, 2012
| Just passing this on, I wasn't there.
From a buddy who went to Hidden Falls in RMNP on Sunday the 9th.
"it was a complete zoo. About 20 climbers were there, sketchfest. The ice is really poor, chandeliered and wet and very limited." |
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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Dec 12, 2012
| Mark Hammond wrote: Just passing this on, I wasn't there. From a buddy who went to Hidden Falls in RMNP on Sunday the 9th. "it was a complete zoo. About 20 climbers were there, sketchfest. The ice is really poor, chandeliered and wet and very limited."
I wouldn't recommend going there on a weekend. |
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By coop
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Dec 12, 2012
| I don't think anything is climbable yet. We finally got snow and cold temps to make some ice.
A.P.Lee wrote: Does anyone what, if anything, is in in the Redstone/Marble area? |
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By Rocky_Mtn_High
From Arvada, CO
Dec 12, 2012
| Mark Hammond wrote: Just passing this on, I wasn't there. From a buddy who went to Hidden Falls in RMNP on Sunday the 9th. "it was a complete zoo. About 20 climbers were there, sketchfest. The ice is really poor, chandeliered and wet and very limited."
I was there on Sunday, and though 20 climbers is an exaggeration, a dozen or so is not. Most folks got on after an hour or two, but I agree with Scott, it's generally not worth it on weekends. Personally, I'm not sure it's really worth it at all right now, given how kicked out it is, and essentially only a single line, with water running visibly under the surface in the center, and a thin upper pillar that won't take much abuse.
I just called the RMNP Rangers office and was told they are meeting right now to discuss opening Bear Lake Road. Thankfully, it sounds as if it will be reopening shortly, possibly today. I was told there is about 7" of snow up there. |
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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Dec 12, 2012
| Rocky_Mtn_High wrote: I just called the RMNP Rangers office and was told they are meeting right now to discuss opening Bear Lake Road. Thankfully, it sounds as if it will be reopening shortly, possibly today. I was told there is about 7" of snow up there.
Speaking of rangers and Hidden Falls, what would we have to do to get that death tree removed at the top of the falls? It's worse than ever. |
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By Paul-B
Dec 12, 2012
| Anybody know if that North Central Couloir on Sneffels is still in (posted back on Oct 30th)? I would assume it is, since things are starting to form up in Ouray.
Assuming they don't get anymore snow I would like to head down and do it early next week. Anyone interested in coming? |
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By Roger from Ouray
Dec 12, 2012
| The San Juans have gotten about a foot of snow in the last several days. More is forecast for Thurs night/Fri. A consideration, I would think, in looking at Sneffels as an ice climb. |
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By Brandon Groza
From Loveland, CO
Dec 12, 2012
| Scott McMahon wrote: Speaking of rangers and Hidden Falls, what would we have to do to get that death tree removed at the top of the falls? It's worse than ever.
What would I use for my TR anchor if that thing is taken out? :) |
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By Bryan Gilmore
From Your Mama
Dec 12, 2012
| Paul-B wrote: Anybody know if that North Central Couloir on Sneffels is still in (posted back on Oct 30th)? I would assume it is, since things are starting to form up in Ouray. Assuming they don't get anymore snow I would like to head down and do it early next week. Anyone interested in coming?
Some friends climbed that a week or so ago and encountered mostly powder snow, with about a 20' section of ice up high. Since then I'd guess we've received about 2' of snow up there. |
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By Paul-B
Dec 12, 2012
| Beagle wrote: Some friends climbed that a week or so ago and encountered mostly powder snow, with about a 20' section of ice up high. Since then I'd guess we've received about 2' of snow up there.
Thanks. Sounds like I waited to long. |
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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Dec 12, 2012
| Brandon Groza wrote: What would I use for my TR anchor if that thing is taken out? :)
haha brother if you are using this tree...But really it's only so long before the ground below goes, even though it's still alive. This is two weeks ago. Not sure how getting something like this looked at by the rangers would work.
| Hidden Falls death tree.
Submitted By: Scott McMahon on Dec 12, 2012
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By Jayson
Dec 12, 2012
| | Lake City Ice Park Conditions as of 12/9/12
Submitted By: Jayson on Dec 12, 2012
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By Steve Larson
From Glendale, CA
Dec 12, 2012
| Campground couloir is in but soggy. Sundance looked in, but kind if sun baked and dirty. |
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By Rick McL
From Arvada CO
Dec 13, 2012
| | Tony's Nightmare, 12/07/2012.
Submitted By: Rick McL on Dec 13, 2012
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By Dylan Evans
Dec 13, 2012
| Anyone have recent beta on Total Abandon? Or any info about the toll road, for that matter? |
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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Dec 15, 2012
| Bump for beta on officer's gulch OR flying Dutchman in RMNP. Thanks! |
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By clay meier
Dec 15, 2012
| anything in S. CO? Ouray? Redstone? Silverton? |
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By Rocky_Mtn_High
From Arvada, CO
Dec 16, 2012
| clay meier wrote: anything in S. CO? Ouray? Redstone? Silverton?
I was planning to head to Ouray/Silverton tomorrow, but most climbs seem to be thin, if in at all, and the recent snow has caused dicey avy conditions in Eureka.
mtnguide.net/resources/ouray-ice-conditions/
Closer to home: headed up to Black Lake today. The West Gulley was a bitch to get to, and it snowed all day, but avy danger was still low IMHO and the ice is in nicely (ditto for the Slabs).
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By Phoenix
From louisville, colorado
Dec 16, 2012
| FFS people! Leave hidden alone before you kill it, FOR EVERYONE! Just because some jackass posted a picture of an anemic, barely climable piece of ice, does not mean that it is in. O wait, no, nevermind, go ahead and knock it down. Them the gumbies can leave to destroy some other piece of ice, and maybe we mixed climbers can have a SAFE quiet time climbing in wild basin. Go to lincoln falls or something. |
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By logan johnson
From West Copper, Co
Dec 16, 2012
| +1 ^^^
A lot of stuff in Vail is barely in (esp. spiral staircase.) Please stick to the fatter stuff and wait to climb the "barely in" stuff.
Officers Gulch is getting quite a bit of snow right now, I would wait until a few days after this storm system and reassess. Those gulleys will be sluffing for at least a few days. |
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By Ross
From Pinewood Springs
Dec 16, 2012
| AMU was good Sat 15th, we were alone all day. Crossing mills lake was sketch, we tested as we walked and unbuckled our pack waist belt. |
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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Dec 16, 2012
| Took a peep at silver plume today, not too much happening. Bring on the snow! |
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By clay meier
Dec 16, 2012
| rockey mt high, that link is super awesome! thanks |
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By eric kramak
Dec 17, 2012
| Climbed Esperanza, just west of Silver Plume, on Sunday morning. Ice was a little wet, but fairly fat and plastic. 2 fun and easy pitches - possible to contrive variations up to WI-3/M-easy.
Also climbed something in the Officer's Gulch area. Parked, walked east along the bike path for a few minutes, then followed a boot pack into the woods at a small cairn/gas pipeline warning sign. Walked uphill for 20 minutes or so then descended into a gulley. Climbed this for 1500' past numerous steps of varying quality, length and difficulty - nothing harder than WI-3 - punctuated by periods of intense slogging though 6" of powder on ankle-breaking talus (not amazing)
Anyone know what this is?
Also triggered a small side - 2' crown, 20' across - while trying to exit the obviously wind-loaded gulley just below tree line. Fortunately it didn't have far to propagate. After cleaning my drawers, I escaped the gulley to the west and descended a wooded rib. Someone had been that way previously, possibly on Saturday, and had also trigger a small slide in the next gulley to the west.
Be careful out there! |
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