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The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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By trese
From Boulder and Innsbruck, Austria
Nov 22, 2012
Tyrol
Climbed AMU on Tuesday. I recorded the descent with my GPS - maybe it is helpful for somebody in white out conditions - it is maybe not the ideal route down but you can see where the gully down to the base of the climb starts: gpsies.com/map.do?fileId=vvmbh...


Final pitch.
Final pitch.


First pitch.
First pitch.


Overwiew of AMU.
Overwiew of AMU.

FLAG
By Noah8000
From Vail, CO
Nov 22, 2012
The transfer to ice...in this case a horizontal, w...
Jamie Jones wrote:
sorry but luke is wrong. There is very little ice anywhere due to high freezing levels and record high temps. Its 54 degrees F in Telluride today. That's at 8700ft. There is no water and any ice in the sun is soon gone or funky. It aint worth the trip!


Hell ya it's way worth it!! Moss is a good substitute for ice. And there is ice to be found up at higher elevations too.


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By Jonathan White
From littleton, co
Nov 22, 2012
Laps in Ouray
Climbed Lincoln yesterday, lots of good ice but its getting dry.. The front most bolt on the left side of the boulder at the top of the bowling alley is loose and will pop of unless tightened...

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By Simon Thompson
From New Paltz, NY
Nov 23, 2012
Noah8000 wrote:
Hell ya it's way worth it!! Moss is a good substitute for ice. And there is ice to be found up at higher elevations too.


Awesome pic!

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By Chris Mack
Nov 25, 2012
Beer
eric kramak wrote:
...Total Abandon is in what appears to be pretty fat shape right now. Like WI4-, M-not really necessary fat...


If you plan to get on Total Abandon, make haste. Mike Murphy and I climbed it on the 23rd, and it is certainly starting to sublimate. Don't get me wrong, there is still a lot of ice left and we thought the conditions were kick-ass, but it will not last long unless the weather changes, which doesn't seem likely until after this week at the earliest. The road hours do not really allow for time consuming mistakes up there, so I would recommend being at the gate before they open in the morning, which is 9am. I am no expert on this route, but I think it is a safe bet that it received a record number of ascents this year and for good reason! She's a classic!

Here's a shot of Murf in the crux:

Pitch 2 crux.
Pitch 2 crux.

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By erik rieger
From Gold Hill, CO
Nov 26, 2012
Down south...

Eureka area:
Highway to Hell - IN, awesome
Stairway - lean and mean, sublimated
Whorehouse - first pitch fell down

Mineral:
Campground Couloir - IN, awesome
Sundance - IN, sublimated, needs snow
Snowblind - looks in
DNF - upper is in

Camp Bird:
Slip Sliding Away - IN, thin and awesome
Chopo's - forming, needs snow
Senator's - really wet
...a lot of random WI3-WI4 flows if you're willing to look/hike

Sneffels area:
North faces are IN

Up north...RMNP is good now, too.

FLAG
By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Nov 26, 2012
Bocan
Some pictures of the Loch Vale area on Saturday. Sorry for the poor photo quality, they are with an Iphone in bad light and from a distance. Let me know if I titled any climb wrong.
Loch Vale 1 - Mo flo than go.
Loch Vale 1 - Mo flo than go.


Loch Vale 2.
Loch Vale 2.


Loch Vale 3.
Loch Vale 3.


The Crypt.
The Crypt.


Northwest Face Route - Thatchtop.
Northwest Face Route - Thatchtop.


Deep Freeze.
Deep Freeze.


Dragon Tail from afar.
Dragon Tail from afar.


Taylor Glacier snowfields.
Taylor Glacier snowfields.


Andrews Glacier tarn behind me.
Andrews Glacier tarn behind me.

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By willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
Nov 26, 2012
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my...
this is getting depressing, my first winter in CO and the ice was here, now it's gone-ish??? can a CO veteran reassure me that indeed, this is still early season, and that there will be a plethora of ice eventually?

I mean hell, I've seen more snow in the Great Smokey Mtns this time of year than we're seeing in the Rockies now, I've been bummed out about this for the last week.

FLAG
 
By Highlander
From Ouray, CO
Nov 26, 2012
Go rock climbing and enjoy the weather. The ice will be here when it is time. Always funny to see so many people jump the gun for ice. Go climb a rock!

willeslinger wrote:
this is getting depressing, my first winter in CO and the ice was here, now it's gone-ish??? can a CO veteran reassure me that indeed, this is still early season, and that there will be a plethora of ice eventually? I mean hell, I've seen more snow in the Great Smokey Mtns this time of year than we're seeing in the Rockies now, I've been bummed out about this for the last week.

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By willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
Nov 26, 2012
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my...
Highlander wrote:
Go rock climbing and enjoy the weather. The ice will be here when it is time. Always funny to see so many people jump the gun for ice. Go climb a rock!


but... rock climbing is hard and you don't get to swing sharp pointy shit

FLAG
By phil wortmann
From Colorado Springs, Co.
Nov 26, 2012
Shredded by the Center Route.
The lower stuff will start to form up soon IF we ever get snow. If not, the Ouray ice park will open in a few weeks or so.

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By Martin Barnett
Nov 27, 2012
Does anybody know if there is ice on the second pitch of Notch top yet.

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By Martin Barnett
Nov 27, 2012
Are you able to get to the upper parts of DNF if the lower part isn't in?

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By Dougald MacDonald
Nov 27, 2012
Martin Barnett wrote:
Does anybody know if there is ice on the second pitch of Notch top yet.


There was zero ice on the second pitch (crux rock band) on Notchtop on 11/20. Despite the Front Range warmth, it is very cold up there, and I doubt new ice is forming. The rock goes at fairly sketchy M5 or so, or you might be able to skirt it to the left or right. The rest of the route has thick ice and deep snow.

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By Scotty Nelson
From Boulder
Nov 27, 2012
Post- Greenwood/Locke, Mt Temple, Canda
Does anyone know if Alexander's is still in?

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By erik rieger
From Gold Hill, CO
Nov 27, 2012
Martin Barnett wrote:
Are you able to get to the upper parts of DNF if the lower part isn't in?


You could probably traverse in from the left, where there are trees and it's not so steep. There is also, supposedly, an M5/6 start (To the right? Not positive on that, though. You'll want some pins.)

FLAG
 
By mcova
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Nov 30, 2012
Ice
anyone climb The Road or anything else around Evans this fall? Wondering with low snow last year and not much this year if anything formed. Might just be scratchy fun!

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By Dylan Evans
From Boulder, Colorado
Nov 30, 2012
Does anyone have any beta on the cables route on longs right now? Thinking of going this weekend, possibly solo - good idea or no?

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By Koy
From Denver, CO
Nov 30, 2012
1st ice pitch above the Black Pyramid on 6/26/09.
Dylan Evans wrote:
Does anyone have any beta on the cables route on longs right now? Thinking of going this weekend, possibly solo - good idea or no?



Maybe on Sunday. High winds forecasted for the Park tomorrow with gusts up to 65 mph. Forecasted to subside to "only" 40 mph on Sunday.

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By Underground
Nov 30, 2012
Hi all,

Anyone up in Summit Co or elsewhere have any info on ice & avy conditions in Officer's Gulch?

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By logan johnson
From West Copper, Co
Nov 30, 2012
Flakey Pull Roof v5
No avy conditions to worry about in Officer's....there is no snow.
As of last week three tiers was in and that's about it. One of the summit locals might have a surprise update, but I doubt it.
Everything in Vail is not even close.

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By Dylan Evans
From Boulder, Colorado
Nov 30, 2012
"Maybe on Sunday. High winds forecasted for the Park tomorrow with gusts up to 65 mph. Forecasted to subside to "only" 40 mph on Sunday."

Haha for longs that's about as good as it gets.

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By Taylor-B.
From CO & AK
Nov 30, 2012
Mt. Churchill, University Range
Thousands of feet of ice in Ten Mile/Officers Gulch! With no snow, many of the gullies are full of WI2-3 for thousands of feet. We climbed Around The Corner to the summit of Peak 4, made for an excellent alpine route.
Peak 4 ice.
Peak 4 ice.


Thousands of feet of WI 2-3.
Thousands of feet of WI 2-3.


Near the summit of Peak 4 on some nice 3rd class t...
Near the summit of Peak 4 on some nice 3rd class terrain.


Three Tiers- in
Around the Corner- in
Unnamed WI 3-in
Sneaky 1- in
Chimney-scrappy
Tony s Nightmare-out

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By Underground
Dec 1, 2012
Thanks for the Ten Mile info! You may find me there tomorrow...

FLAG
 
By Drew Gibson
From Frisco, CO
Dec 2, 2012
The loose bolts at Lincoln have been fixed.

FLAG


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