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The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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Nov 12, 2012
Looking at heading over to Lincoln falls this week, is there any forest land nearby to camp on? jselwyn
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Jan 15, 2011
30 points
Nov 12, 2012
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my...
jselwyn wrote:
Looking at heading over to Lincoln falls this week, is there any forest land nearby to camp on?


There's camping at Quandary Peak, not sure if it's closed for the season or not. (and there's ice there too-see above post)
willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
Joined Jul 20, 2010
42 points
Nov 13, 2012
Summit of my first tower, the Rectory via Fine Jad...
I visited Mineral Creek in the Silverton area yesterday and found Campground Couloir was in.


Frozen creek crossing.
Frozen creek crossing.

^Creek crossing was safe and dry below Campground Couloir


CC, thin but in.
CC, thin but in.

^Campground Couloir, we placed stubbies and a few pitons


CC route overview.
CC route overview.

^CC Overview. First two pitches are worthwhile, 4wd gets you to the base of the route


DNF not ready.
DNF not ready.

^Direct North Face not quite there


DNF zoom.
DNF zoom.

^Should be in by the weekend.


Finally, Sundance looked climbable, but I would suggest getting on it sooner rather than later as temps in the low 40's and loads of sun exposure might make it unstable.
Dylan Weldin
From Austin, Texas
Joined Dec 5, 2010
1,494 points
Nov 13, 2012
Ancient Art, UT
Dylan,

How was the road getting to Campground Couloir. Can you drive in still??
danny m
From All over
Joined Oct 6, 2009
151 points
Nov 13, 2012
Ancient Art, UT
Also anyone been out to Eureka area/what is in out there?? danny m
From All over
Joined Oct 6, 2009
151 points
Nov 13, 2012
Summit of my first tower, the Rectory via Fine Jad...
danny m wrote:
Dylan, How was the road getting to Campground Couloir. Can you drive in still??


Danny, I got my front wheel drive Mazda Tribute stuck. Chains -or- 4wd would get you there though.

As quoted in my original post: "4wd gets you to the base of the route"

I have no Eureka beta but if these routes are forming I'd posit those are too. Higher, colder, and more sun activity to get water flowing and subsequently freezing...
Dylan Weldin
From Austin, Texas
Joined Dec 5, 2010
1,494 points
Nov 14, 2012
How about around Red Mountain pass? Anything visible from the road? Will be staying up there this weekend and am wondering if it is just best to head down to S. Mineral Creek. Psyched to see campground couloir as it is! Michael E.
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined May 8, 2011
27 points
Nov 14, 2012
More beta please. If there's not two parties on every route in eureka and south mineral this weekend i'm going to be really bummed! Kevin Connolly
From CO
Joined Sep 28, 2009
2 points
Nov 14, 2012
Summit of my first tower, the Rectory via Fine Jad...
Kevin Connolly wrote:
More beta please. If there's not two parties on every route in eureka and south mineral this weekend i'm going to be really bummed!


What is this forum for again?

And Michael, I've never noticed any ice at Red Mountain Pass. What lines are up there? I know the ice park does not open until mid December...
Dylan Weldin
From Austin, Texas
Joined Dec 5, 2010
1,494 points
Nov 15, 2012
I will do almost anything to stay out of one... ev...
Have been psyched for weeks to get my tools into the ice... Was starting to get really depressed that nothing was ever going to come in. (patience... not one of my virtues). Then I saw a party on Officer's Gulch on Wednesday, so I got my hopes up that maybe, just maybe... The Ribbon was setting up and would be ready to climb by my birthday... till I jumped on here... I'm going to go cry now... LOL Tammy Payne
Joined Jun 14, 2011
238 points
Nov 15, 2012
Dylan Weldin wrote:
What lines are up there? I know the ice park does not open until mid December...


Ever checked out any of these Dylan? mountainproject.com/v/us-highw...

And Tammy, whens your birthday? Dont give up hope just yet!:)
Rodney P
From Ouray,CO
Joined Oct 7, 2011
65 points
Nov 15, 2012
Summit of my first tower, the Rectory via Fine Jad...
Rodney P wrote:
Ever checked out any of these Dylan? mountainproject.com/v/us-highw... And Tammy, whens your birthday? Dont give up hope just yet!:)



Oh yes, of course. I thought he was referring to Red Mountain proper as in the immediate summit of the pass. As far as Ouray area conditions go, I have not heard anything promising from the area. Sure doesn't help that it's almost 50 degrees today though...
Dylan Weldin
From Austin, Texas
Joined Dec 5, 2010
1,494 points
Nov 15, 2012
I will do almost anything to stay out of one... ev...
Sunday, December 9th... my hopes are completely dashed w/ news of 50 degree temps today :0( Ugh!!!! Tammy Payne
Joined Jun 14, 2011
238 points
Nov 16, 2012
Dylan Weldin wrote:
Oh yes, of course. I thought he was referring to Red Mountain proper as in the immediate summit of the pass. As far as Ouray area conditions go, I have not heard anything promising from the area. Sure doesn't help that it's almost 50 degrees today though...


Really, I was referring to anything down HW 14 to the south east of the of Red Mountain Pass proper. Seems like there could be potential...?
Michael E.
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined May 8, 2011
27 points
Nov 16, 2012
2nd pitch of Chockstone Gulley, Skylight Area, Our...
Not trying to hijack the thread but I do have a question about current conditions... My wife and I had a trip planned for next week and it fell through. We would really like to get on some ice next week. Is there anything that is in and worth the drive from Nor Cal? I can lead WI4 and multi pitch routes would be fine but the wife would like some stuff that could be top roped. Any suggestions? Josh Hutch
Joined Dec 12, 2008
30 points
Nov 16, 2012
Longs Peak Cirque
Josh, the question would be is how many days are you going to try to be out here climbing and what area? It seems like someone could stay in the front range and get three or four days of Ice both top rope and multipitch. I havent been down to the san juans yet this year but it is sounding promising. Send me a message if your interested in partnering up Matt Shepard
From Broomfield, CO
Joined Jul 19, 2006
39 points
Nov 16, 2012
RMNP Update:

Climbed West Gully on 11/14/2012: plenty of ice, though the first pitch was brittle and the second hollow. Full conditions report with photos at elevatedattitude.com/dailylife...

AMU looks doable, as well, with a bit of rock maybe in the middle.

Jewel Lake ice is forming.

Reflections looked in but thin.
Phil Magistro
Joined Nov 22, 2009
2 points
Nov 16, 2012
sorry about the sarcasm. let me try again. while you were beating pins in shitty sandstone to protect some sketchy WI3- did you ever think that the ice could use a little more time to grow before telling the whole world it was good to go? you are free to post all the ice conditions you want, its just lame, especially in november. Kevin Connolly
From CO
Joined Sep 28, 2009
2 points
Nov 16, 2012
by the way its not worth driving out from california, or even the front range for anything around silverton. save it for spring, everything will probably be in much better shape. if you live closer go exploring, its part of the game and you may find something worthwhile. worst case you drive and hike a bit and end up at the rum bar, its really not that bad. Kevin Connolly
From CO
Joined Sep 28, 2009
2 points
Nov 17, 2012
Thrill is Gone
Kevin, be nice. The only climbs we should stay off of right now are the steep pillars that will tear down and take longer to form properly. Plus, mineral creek usually gets shut down with snow later in the season anyway, so saving those climbs for later is a waste. ozman
From CO / NM
Joined Jan 10, 2011
552 points
Nov 17, 2012
Bocan
Kevin, you're yelling into the wind. Every year everyone runs out to heavy hand and foot any piece of ice that forms. Boulder Canyon is a good example of limited resources and too many impatient climbers.

With the amount of people ice climbing now, it's pretty much a lost cause.
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
942 points
Nov 18, 2012
Hitchhiking in Arches
Climbed All Mixed Up on Thursday 11/16/12 and its in great shape. Brought rock gear but never used it! No snow on the approach so get on it before the storms hit!

All Mixed Up, 11/16/12.
All Mixed Up, 11/16/12.
Tom Willard
From Avon, CO
Joined Jan 5, 2005
164 points
Nov 18, 2012
Jose Cuervo Fruitcups dirtbag style
Scott McMahon wrote:
Kevin, you're yelling into the wind. Every year everyone runs out to heavy hand and foot any piece of ice that forms. Boulder Canyon is a good example of limited resources and too many impatient climbers. With the amount of people ice climbing now, it's pretty much a lost cause.



I agree with Kevin - watching the weather pattern and then going to explore is part of the game, especially if you are so pressed to get on early season ice. Used to be, the early season ice was for the adventurous and intrepid. Nowadays, it seems to have opened up for the lazy "veni, vidi, vici" types who need to tick off climbs before the approaches get chocked up with snow.
doligo
Joined Sep 26, 2008
408 points
Nov 18, 2012
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
doligo wrote:
I agree with Kevin - watching the weather pattern and then going to explore is part of the game, especially if you are so pressed to get on early season ice. Used to be, the early season ice was for the adventurous and intrepid. Nowadays, it seems to have opened up for the lazy "veni, vidi, vici" types who need to tick off climbs before the approaches get chocked up with snow.


Yeah, good point, let's just shut this thread down and burn all the guidebooks while we're at it. Once everything's in there's not much point anyway. Not everyone has unlimited time and gas money to scout AND climb. Probably should ask Aaron to shut down the Cody site and Will Gadd to take down his site for the Canadian Rockies as well. If you want to know, go look, right?. Meh. Again, whatever happened to climbers helping and being courteous to each other?
Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
Nov 18, 2012
To the first party on the Bowling Alley at Lincoln on Saturday 11/17/12:
If you're on here, PM me, I forgot to get your contact info. I was the other dude with Aztars, as you were leading the first pitch.
Brian Scoggins
From Boise, ID
Joined Mar 12, 2002
1,110 points


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